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Chapters (84)
  1. Chapter one
  2. Chapter two
  3. Chapter three
  4. Chapter four
  5. Chapter five
  6. Chapter six
  7. Chapter seven
  8. Chapter eight
  9. Chapter nine
  10. Chapter ten
  11. Chapter eleven
  12. Chapter twelve
  13. Chapter thirteen
  14. Chapter fourteen
  15. Chapter fifteen
  16. Chapter sixteen
  17. Chapter seventeen
  18. Chapter eighteen
  19. Chapter nineteen
  20. Chapter twenty
  21. Chapter twenty-one
  22. Chapter twenty-two
  23. Chapter twenty-three
  24. Chapter twenty-four
  25. Chapter twenty-five
  26. Chapter twenty-six
  27. Chapter twenty-seven
  28. Chapter twenty-eight
  29. Chapter twenty-nine
  30. Chapter thirty
  31. Chapter thirty-one
  32. Chapter thirty-two
  33. Chapter thirty-three
  34. Chapter thirty-four
  35. Chapter thirty-five
  36. Chapter thirty-six
  37. Chapter thirty-seven
  38. Chapter thirty-eight
  39. Chapter thirty-nine
  40. Chapter forty
  41. Chapter forty-one
  42. Chapter forty-two
  43. Chapter forty-three
  44. Chapter forty-four
  45. Chapter forty-five
  46. Chapter forty-six
  47. Chapter forty-seven
  48. Chapter forty-eight
  49. Chapter forty-nine
  50. Chapter fifty
  51. Chapter fifty-one
  52. Chapter fifty-two
  53. Chapter fifty-three
  54. Chapter fifty-four
  55. Chapter fifty-five
  56. Chapter fifty-six
  57. Chapter fifty-seven
  58. Chapter fifty-eight
  59. Chapter fifty-nine
  60. Chapter sixty
  61. Chapter sixty-one
  62. Chapter sixty-two
  63. Chapter sixty-three
  64. Chapter sixty-four
  65. Chapter sixty-five
  66. Chapter sixty-six
  67. Chapter sixty-seven
  68. Chapter sixty-eight
  69. Chapter sixty-nine
  70. Chapter seventy
  71. Chapter seventy-one
  72. Chapter seventy-two
  73. Chapter seventy-three
  74. Chapter seventy-four
  75. Chapter seventy-five
  76. Chapter seventy-six
  77. Chapter seventy-seven
  78. Chapter seventy-eight
  79. Chapter seventy-nine
  80. Chapter eighty
  81. Chapter eighty-one
  82. Chapter eighty-two
  83. Chapter eighty-three
  84. Chapter eighty-four

A week is not, I’ve found, a very long time to prepare yourself for such a momentous trip. Go on a beach holiday and all you need are a few bikinis and a sarong—maybe a natty pair of flip-flops. Nipping off to Nepal is not in the same league. The Himalayas are not so accommodating when it comes to equipment requirements. I went out on Monday and threw myself on the mercy of a very lovely young man in the local Outdoor Shop. After several hours of trying on walking boots and down jackets and discussing the various merits of four-season sleeping bags, I came out of the shop several hundred pounds lighter and several bags heavier.

When I got home, I tried on all my new gear again in the privacy of my own lounge. It was truly alarming. I fear that I might look more like one of those anoraked, bobble-hatted types in the expedition brochure than I care to imagine. Plus I can hardly move, let alone march up a hill.

Still, I’m committed now—or should be—and I’m having a going-away party to mark the occasion. A select few. My sister, hubby Lee and their brood, doting mother who has not yet been told the purpose of the party, and Pip. That’s it. That’s my send-off party. I’m not sure why I invited Pip. Except that he’s been nice to me and has even called a couple of times to see if I was okay—which is more than can be said about Jake, from whom I’ve heard bugger all.

Edie and her entourage have arrived already. My mother always likes to make a late entrance. My sister’s kids have the entire contents of my new wardrobe spread out on the lounge floor and are taking it in turns to try it on. It’s causing them great hilarity, which is not the response I’d hoped for. Liam is wearing my new wraparound, mountain-strength sunglasses. My nephew is stumbling round, groping the furniture—as well he might. Honestly, they’re so dark I can hardly see out of them. I’m going to need the services of a guide dog if I’m not to walk straight off the edge of a mountain when I’m wearing them. Which would not be a good start to my trip. Something else for me to worry about! Lee, lost without any DIY to do, is taking a moment of respite to read the small ads in the local free newspaper.

‘I tried to do Nepali-themed food,’ I say to Edie, ‘but Sainsbury’s didn’t oblige.’

‘All they eat is yak,’ she replies, Archie hanging from her hip. ‘Yak meat, yak butter, yak milk, yak yoghurt. You’ll come back looking like a yak.’

‘How do you know this, font of all knowledge?’

‘I saw it on the National Geographic channel.’