Chapters (84)
- Chapter one
- Chapter two
- Chapter three
- Chapter four
- Chapter five
- Chapter six
- Chapter seven
- Chapter eight
- Chapter nine
- Chapter ten
- Chapter eleven
- Chapter twelve
- Chapter thirteen
- Chapter fourteen
- Chapter fifteen
- Chapter sixteen
- Chapter seventeen
- Chapter eighteen
- Chapter nineteen
- Chapter twenty
- Chapter twenty-one
- Chapter twenty-two
- Chapter twenty-three
- Chapter twenty-four
- Chapter twenty-five
- Chapter twenty-six
- Chapter twenty-seven
- Chapter twenty-eight
- Chapter twenty-nine
- Chapter thirty
- Chapter thirty-one
- Chapter thirty-two
- Chapter thirty-three
- Chapter thirty-four
- Chapter thirty-five
- Chapter thirty-six
- Chapter thirty-seven
- Chapter thirty-eight
- Chapter thirty-nine
- Chapter forty
- Chapter forty-one
- Chapter forty-two
- Chapter forty-three
- Chapter forty-four
- Chapter forty-five
- Chapter forty-six
- Chapter forty-seven
- Chapter forty-eight
- Chapter forty-nine
- Chapter fifty
- Chapter fifty-one
- Chapter fifty-two
- Chapter fifty-three
- Chapter fifty-four
- Chapter fifty-five
- Chapter fifty-six
- Chapter fifty-seven
- Chapter fifty-eight
- Chapter fifty-nine
- Chapter sixty
- Chapter sixty-one
- Chapter sixty-two
- Chapter sixty-three
- Chapter sixty-four
- Chapter sixty-five
- Chapter sixty-six
- Chapter sixty-seven
- Chapter sixty-eight
- Chapter sixty-nine
- Chapter seventy
- Chapter seventy-one
- Chapter seventy-two
- Chapter seventy-three
- Chapter seventy-four
- Chapter seventy-five
- Chapter seventy-six
- Chapter seventy-seven
- Chapter seventy-eight
- Chapter seventy-nine
- Chapter eighty
- Chapter eighty-one
- Chapter eighty-two
- Chapter eighty-three
- Chapter eighty-four
The next few days are officially rest days—although I’m not sure that getting up at 5.30 a.m. constitutes a rest in anyone’s book. Sanjeev is leading the other members of the group on an optional walk. Being enthusiastic souls, they are all going along. Dean and I have opted to stay back in the camp—ostensibly to do some chores but, of course, we’re planning to do our own explorations. Some of them involving the surrounding countryside. Some of them involving a bit of loitering within the tent. Tee-hee!
When the sun is fully up and the warmth is coming back to the air and our bones, we take a long, slow walk back to the camp hand in hand. The place is a hive of activity. Some of the porters are entertaining themselves by playing cards—indulging the Nepali habit of gambling away most of their meagre pay, Dean tells me. The others have strung up a washing line and are busy rinsing out their clothes in the metal washing pans. As there are no designer cut-price shopping malls or multiplex cinemas within striking distance to occupy us, I can feel a frenzied bout of laundry coming on myself.
So as part of our first romantic day alone-ish together, we get down to the dirty business of washing our socks and pants. And I guess it couldn’t be classed as a particularly lovey-dovey way to spend our time, but my perceptions of a lot of things have changed since I arrived here—romance being one of them.
I sort out my tent, air my boots and repack my rucksack for the thousandth time and anyone watching this process would think that I was an old hand at this camping lark, I’m sure they would. Chores finished, we share lunch with the porters before setting off on a trail towards the village of Sikklis.
The track is a narrow stone path that winds up from the camp and within minutes I’m puffing away and thanking the God of Trekking Poles for finding me the man in the Outdoor Shop. We stand aside in an open, thatched hut to watch as a shepherd drives a reluctant herd of goats to lower pastures. The inside of the hut is covered in blood red, Maoist anti-government slogans, reminding me that not everyone here is happy with their lot. One man’s paradise is so often another man’s hell.