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Chapters (84)
  1. Chapter one
  2. Chapter two
  3. Chapter three
  4. Chapter four
  5. Chapter five
  6. Chapter six
  7. Chapter seven
  8. Chapter eight
  9. Chapter nine
  10. Chapter ten
  11. Chapter eleven
  12. Chapter twelve
  13. Chapter thirteen
  14. Chapter fourteen
  15. Chapter fifteen
  16. Chapter sixteen
  17. Chapter seventeen
  18. Chapter eighteen
  19. Chapter nineteen
  20. Chapter twenty
  21. Chapter twenty-one
  22. Chapter twenty-two
  23. Chapter twenty-three
  24. Chapter twenty-four
  25. Chapter twenty-five
  26. Chapter twenty-six
  27. Chapter twenty-seven
  28. Chapter twenty-eight
  29. Chapter twenty-nine
  30. Chapter thirty
  31. Chapter thirty-one
  32. Chapter thirty-two
  33. Chapter thirty-three
  34. Chapter thirty-four
  35. Chapter thirty-five
  36. Chapter thirty-six
  37. Chapter thirty-seven
  38. Chapter thirty-eight
  39. Chapter thirty-nine
  40. Chapter forty
  41. Chapter forty-one
  42. Chapter forty-two
  43. Chapter forty-three
  44. Chapter forty-four
  45. Chapter forty-five
  46. Chapter forty-six
  47. Chapter forty-seven
  48. Chapter forty-eight
  49. Chapter forty-nine
  50. Chapter fifty
  51. Chapter fifty-one
  52. Chapter fifty-two
  53. Chapter fifty-three
  54. Chapter fifty-four
  55. Chapter fifty-five
  56. Chapter fifty-six
  57. Chapter fifty-seven
  58. Chapter fifty-eight
  59. Chapter fifty-nine
  60. Chapter sixty
  61. Chapter sixty-one
  62. Chapter sixty-two
  63. Chapter sixty-three
  64. Chapter sixty-four
  65. Chapter sixty-five
  66. Chapter sixty-six
  67. Chapter sixty-seven
  68. Chapter sixty-eight
  69. Chapter sixty-nine
  70. Chapter seventy
  71. Chapter seventy-one
  72. Chapter seventy-two
  73. Chapter seventy-three
  74. Chapter seventy-four
  75. Chapter seventy-five
  76. Chapter seventy-six
  77. Chapter seventy-seven
  78. Chapter seventy-eight
  79. Chapter seventy-nine
  80. Chapter eighty
  81. Chapter eighty-one
  82. Chapter eighty-two
  83. Chapter eighty-three
  84. Chapter eighty-four

Felix and Felicity talk a lot about Tibet. I think they’ve possibly come to the wrong country and, instead of visiting Nepal, should have gone to Tibet instead. They once met the Dalai Lama and it seems to have had a profound effect on them—and, subsequently, their spending habits. Every time a Tibetan trader comes into one of the camps or villages, they are pounced on by Felix and Felicity, who commiserate in broken voices about the atrocities committed in their homeland and, to prove that they’re earnest, they buy lots of tacky jewellery. We were allowed ten kilos of baggage and I should think they’ve already bought the equivalent of that in beads, bangles and trinkets. The sum and total of my knowledge of Tibet is from watching Seven Years in Tibet at the local cinema and I only went to see that because Brad Pitt was in it. And I would agree with anyone who cared to voice the opinion that my knowledge of world crises is somewhat shallow. But this is what travel does for you—in the words of all travel brochures, whether it be Cornwall or Kathmandu, travel does indeed expand your horizons. The only thing that travel has normally expanded for me is my waistline. I’ve decided that if you can trot the globe without en suite facilities that’s when you can start to feel more worthy.

And this has been an eye-opener for me. Not least because I’ve discovered that I can manage perfectly well without a hairdryer or Touche Eclat concealer. I’m enjoying rubbing shoulders with nature. I’ve rediscovered my joy at the night sky, even though I can’t work out where the major constellations are because they’re all in different places over here. You simply can’t do this at home because of all the light pollution from the street lamps.

Why is it that we assume our way of life is better? Does it really make us superior beings because we have Sky Digital, gas-guzzling motor cars, power showers and Prozac? The villages might not have electricity, but is it better to spend the evenings singing traditional songs and chatting to the village elders or sitting comatose on a comfy sofa watching Pop Idol, oblivious to the lost art of conversation?

There’s no divorce, no old people’s homes, no psychiatrists, no Weight Watchers’ clubs and I’m not sure that the Nepali people are the poorer for it. The other thing I’ve found that I can manage without is Jake. Whether that’s down to the fact that I’ve found an even more wonderful—albeit temporary—replacement in Dean, I’ve yet to decide.