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Chapters (84)
  1. Chapter one
  2. Chapter two
  3. Chapter three
  4. Chapter four
  5. Chapter five
  6. Chapter six
  7. Chapter seven
  8. Chapter eight
  9. Chapter nine
  10. Chapter ten
  11. Chapter eleven
  12. Chapter twelve
  13. Chapter thirteen
  14. Chapter fourteen
  15. Chapter fifteen
  16. Chapter sixteen
  17. Chapter seventeen
  18. Chapter eighteen
  19. Chapter nineteen
  20. Chapter twenty
  21. Chapter twenty-one
  22. Chapter twenty-two
  23. Chapter twenty-three
  24. Chapter twenty-four
  25. Chapter twenty-five
  26. Chapter twenty-six
  27. Chapter twenty-seven
  28. Chapter twenty-eight
  29. Chapter twenty-nine
  30. Chapter thirty
  31. Chapter thirty-one
  32. Chapter thirty-two
  33. Chapter thirty-three
  34. Chapter thirty-four
  35. Chapter thirty-five
  36. Chapter thirty-six
  37. Chapter thirty-seven
  38. Chapter thirty-eight
  39. Chapter thirty-nine
  40. Chapter forty
  41. Chapter forty-one
  42. Chapter forty-two
  43. Chapter forty-three
  44. Chapter forty-four
  45. Chapter forty-five
  46. Chapter forty-six
  47. Chapter forty-seven
  48. Chapter forty-eight
  49. Chapter forty-nine
  50. Chapter fifty
  51. Chapter fifty-one
  52. Chapter fifty-two
  53. Chapter fifty-three
  54. Chapter fifty-four
  55. Chapter fifty-five
  56. Chapter fifty-six
  57. Chapter fifty-seven
  58. Chapter fifty-eight
  59. Chapter fifty-nine
  60. Chapter sixty
  61. Chapter sixty-one
  62. Chapter sixty-two
  63. Chapter sixty-three
  64. Chapter sixty-four
  65. Chapter sixty-five
  66. Chapter sixty-six
  67. Chapter sixty-seven
  68. Chapter sixty-eight
  69. Chapter sixty-nine
  70. Chapter seventy
  71. Chapter seventy-one
  72. Chapter seventy-two
  73. Chapter seventy-three
  74. Chapter seventy-four
  75. Chapter seventy-five
  76. Chapter seventy-six
  77. Chapter seventy-seven
  78. Chapter seventy-eight
  79. Chapter seventy-nine
  80. Chapter eighty
  81. Chapter eighty-one
  82. Chapter eighty-two
  83. Chapter eighty-three
  84. Chapter eighty-four

So—all of life is here. That leaves poor old me, Lyssa Allen—unlucky in work, unlucky in love. Depressed, heart-broken single and child-free zone. Although I’m alone, in another way I’m feeling strangely comforted to be travelling with this mish-mash of humanity.

We finish the chicken—all of it. The plates are so clean that they probably won’t need to wash them and then Mr Bom brings us a metal dish of tinned fruit salad—the one with the livid red cocktail cherries in it that everyone’s grandmother used to serve. And we all tuck in because it tastes so much better here with the Himalayas in the background and because some poor sod has carried it on his back all the way here.

The Sherpas finish us off completely with steaming mugs of Nepalese black tea which tastes wonderful—smoky and refreshing. Now that we’re all too fat to move, we waddle outside to sit by the campfire so that the porters can move into the dining tent and bed down for the night.

Tony and Tania head straight back to their tent because they clearly can’t wait to get down to it, but the rest of us assemble round the fire, leaning into the warmth. There are some mats on the ground to shield us from the chill and I’m gratified to see that my lovely guide takes his place by my side again. I’m not deluding myself, but it could be the fact that I’m single, relatively young and not completely barking that he’s finding being joined at the hip to me quite attractive. And I’m certainly not complaining.

The foothills nestling round us form a magnificent backdrop to the camp; the night is cold and inordinately still. A couple of the porters join us and quietly continue to sing traditional songs, blending one into the other with only a modicum of ‘what shall we sing next’ discussion. It’s sad, isn’t it, that we Brits don’t have much in the way of tradition left? Unless, of course, you count Morris dancers, and the less I say about grown men jumping around with bells on their legs and hitting each other with fake pigs’ bladders the better. Most of us would be hard-pushed to know the words to the National Anthem. And it’s not exactly a rousing tune at the best of times, is it? I blame it on the advent of television that none of us sit round the piano singing ‘Roll Out the Barrel’ anymore. And the poorer we are for it.