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Chapters (61)
  1. Cover
  2. About the Author
  3. PENGUIN BOOKS
  4. Dedication
  5. Epigraph
  6. The Shipwreck, 1987
  7. Heaven, Really
  8. Flying to Tower Hamlets
  9. The Coroner’s Office
  10. The Burial Ground
  11. Single at Mingles, 1988
  12. Café Italia, Soho
  13. Broadstairs-sur-la-Mer
  14. Clerken-well
  15. Fifty-one Days in Blackheath
  16. London Au Revoir
  17. La France
  18. The Freeway
  19. Hall of Mirrors, Versailles
  20. The Queen of France’s Boudoir
  21. A Caravan in a Country Lane
  22. The Convent
  23. Café des Fantômes, Paris
  24. The Camargue
  25. Morning in a French Lay-by
  26. A Thousand Miles from Home
  27. The Campsite
  28. Summer on the Coast
  29. The Crying Mountain
  30. Seeing Red in Orange Square, Marbella
  31. Rock of Jabal al-Tariq
  32. The Room in Jessie’s Head
  33. Mama Hortense’s Singing Kitchen
  34. Closing Time at Mama’s
  35. The Alps
  36. The Fêted House of Medici, Florence
  37. Continental Shift, Turkey
  38. The Silken Road
  39. Letter from the Court of Jessie at Ölüdeniz
  40. Summer of 1989: Court Budget
  41. Dreams of a Faraway Place
  42. A Trip Down Memory Lane
  43. Old Istanbul
  44. Eighteenth-century Slave Market
  45. In the Sultan’s Seraglio
  46. Life after the Camp Deserter
  47. The Front Line
  48. Güle, Güle, Ölüdeniz
  49. The Ocean Floor
  50. Eastern Anatolia
  51. Slipping into the Middle East
  52. The Supreme Court of ‘Justice’
  53. Antipodean Dreamtime
  54. The Glorious Gulf
  55. Epilogue: Under the Carpet at Windsor
  56. Acknowledgements
  57. Read more
  58. Read more
  59. Read more
  60. Read more
  61. THIS IS JUST THE BEGINNING

That’s how I met Sergio and Eeva-Lina. He was Spanish, from the interior. She was a Finn who went on holiday, fell for him and stayed. Ingratiated myself by becoming their one regular for a week. A right funny pair, seeing as she was topping six foot and he was nearer the five foot mark. She was a strapping long-legged ex-model with scraggy bottle-blonde hair and two-inch black roots, who wore foundation as subtle as hardened cement. Her teeth were a state. Heavy smokers. Both were. Eeva-Lina carried herself like a Viking goddess (what doesn’t know she’s gone to pot) and had that desperate expression of fading beauties craving admiration in the gaze of others. Sergio had the kind of moustache that’d put you off kissing a man ’cos you’d be wondering what hatchlings lurked inside it.

I’d exhausted myself trudging around the fringes of Marbella, seeking out little bars and restaurants in need of a good shake-up, and came across these two, desperate for business – my last shot. I appeared to them as a fairy godmother (my speciality) when I said I’d cook up a storm and turn their run-down café into a culinary establishment and cabaret bar. Eeva-Lina had named the place El Smorgasbord, in spite of any evidence that she’d ever sliced a salami, let alone sold one. A marketing gimmick, she explained, over-enunciating as if English were my second tongue, and ruffling her hair, carelessly blowing smoke in my face like she was Greta Garbo returned from the ball and I was Hattie McDaniel waiting patiently to take her fur stole. It’s clearly worked, hasn’t it, I refrained from saying, casting my eyes at the empty chairs. Instead I pitched forth, ‘Mama Hortense’s Singing Kitchen, right? Let’s start afresh.’

They looked affronted, which made me push my cards further up the table. ‘Give me licence to make changes. Are we agreed?’ They shifted uncomfortably and sneaked the kind of coded glances at each other that a blind five-year-old could decipher. I collected my bag and jacket and got up to leave. ‘Or I’ll find somewhere else.’

That forced them to nod. Sergio’s was two beats behind Eeva-Lina’s, as he’d had three bottles of beer since I’d arrived an hour earlier and was breaking open the fourth with his teeth. ‘We’ll specialize in Caribbean cuisine,’ I stated. (Who’s to know any different around here.) That made them twitch excitedly, and Eeva-Lina suddenly clicked pretend castanets in the air and shouted, ‘Carmen Miranda! Josephine Baker and her swinging bananas. Olé!’

I let it pass.

‘I’ll rustle up a kaftan, make a bandanna, big silver loop earrings, bangles, ruby lips and guess what? Big Mama’s in the house!’

Sergio smiled, revealing his muddy pearlies. I wished he wouldn’t.

I added, ‘After the overheads, we’ll split it forty–sixty.’