Back Soul Tourists
Chapters (61)
  1. Cover
  2. About the Author
  3. PENGUIN BOOKS
  4. Dedication
  5. Epigraph
  6. The Shipwreck, 1987
  7. Heaven, Really
  8. Flying to Tower Hamlets
  9. The Coroner’s Office
  10. The Burial Ground
  11. Single at Mingles, 1988
  12. Café Italia, Soho
  13. Broadstairs-sur-la-Mer
  14. Clerken-well
  15. Fifty-one Days in Blackheath
  16. London Au Revoir
  17. La France
  18. The Freeway
  19. Hall of Mirrors, Versailles
  20. The Queen of France’s Boudoir
  21. A Caravan in a Country Lane
  22. The Convent
  23. Café des Fantômes, Paris
  24. The Camargue
  25. Morning in a French Lay-by
  26. A Thousand Miles from Home
  27. The Campsite
  28. Summer on the Coast
  29. The Crying Mountain
  30. Seeing Red in Orange Square, Marbella
  31. Rock of Jabal al-Tariq
  32. The Room in Jessie’s Head
  33. Mama Hortense’s Singing Kitchen
  34. Closing Time at Mama’s
  35. The Alps
  36. The Fêted House of Medici, Florence
  37. Continental Shift, Turkey
  38. The Silken Road
  39. Letter from the Court of Jessie at Ölüdeniz
  40. Summer of 1989: Court Budget
  41. Dreams of a Faraway Place
  42. A Trip Down Memory Lane
  43. Old Istanbul
  44. Eighteenth-century Slave Market
  45. In the Sultan’s Seraglio
  46. Life after the Camp Deserter
  47. The Front Line
  48. Güle, Güle, Ölüdeniz
  49. The Ocean Floor
  50. Eastern Anatolia
  51. Slipping into the Middle East
  52. The Supreme Court of ‘Justice’
  53. Antipodean Dreamtime
  54. The Glorious Gulf
  55. Epilogue: Under the Carpet at Windsor
  56. Acknowledgements
  57. Read more
  58. Read more
  59. Read more
  60. Read more
  61. THIS IS JUST THE BEGINNING

J When he goes to the pump to fetch water, I worry he’s never coming back

S I should have been a marine biologist. So near the sea, its pull becomes irresistible

J He sits for hours staring into the horizon. Let me in, for a change

S Did you know that only 1 per cent of the ocean floor has been explored? I’m longing to disappear in a deep-sea submersible

J Lovely, I reply, a nice little cabin for us with a king-sized bed, a bottle of Moet et Chandon and an audience of perverted, voyeuristic fish

S What’s for bloody dinner!

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The Crying Mountain

It was the end of summer, the campsite all but deserted. That evening the sea had been like bark, and the air glutinous with the humidity that precedes a storm. The sky was portentous with thundercloud and the guttural squalls of seagulls. Inside the caravan, Jessie and Stanley had made a frantic, sticky love, more impelled by the desire to relieve the pressure drumming inside their heads than by a carnal, craven passion.

It had been raining for days, the worst rainfall in twenty-five years along the coast; the roads were waterlogged and hazardous. When the mother of all storms finally exploded, the River Fuengirola burst its banks, erupting out of the mountainside in a thunderous explosion, sending vehicles head over heels, flattening houses, uprooting trees, claiming several lives and (as the final obstacle in its flight path) sweeping up the campsite and carrying it forth to sea in its terrible, unstoppable arms.

The thundercrack awoke Jessie and Stanley, and immediately afterwards the caravan was lifted up in the full blast of breakneck rapids and hurled over the road, where it ended up smashed into a tree. Where the sink had been, the gnarled tentacles of branches reached in to grab the occupants. They held on tightly to each other, barely conscious and barely breathing, as the river and rain washed over them, pounding the windows on each side of the bed. But, thankfully, the caravan did not collapse on them.

They prayed to a god both had abandoned long ago that they would not be carried away.

The Civil Protection Service arrived shortly thereafter and they were driven to hospital to be treated for bruises and shock, before being taken to emergency accommodation at Hotel Enriqueta in Marbella.

The next day they were able to survey the damage. Matilda, they were told, had been drifting out to sea until the tide decided to bring her back. Although the car was now looking decidedly forlorn and muddy on the beach, it was remarkably undamaged. But the garage mechanic told them it would suffer from salt erosion in the future.

The caravan, he confirmed, was a write-off.

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Seeing Red in Orange Square, Marbella