Back Soul Tourists Save as PDF
Chapters (61)
  1. Cover
  2. About the Author
  3. PENGUIN BOOKS
  4. Dedication
  5. Epigraph
  6. The Shipwreck, 1987
  7. Heaven, Really
  8. Flying to Tower Hamlets
  9. The Coroner’s Office
  10. The Burial Ground
  11. Single at Mingles, 1988
  12. Café Italia, Soho
  13. Broadstairs-sur-la-Mer
  14. Clerken-well
  15. Fifty-one Days in Blackheath
  16. London Au Revoir
  17. La France
  18. The Freeway
  19. Hall of Mirrors, Versailles
  20. The Queen of France’s Boudoir
  21. A Caravan in a Country Lane
  22. The Convent
  23. Café des Fantômes, Paris
  24. The Camargue
  25. Morning in a French Lay-by
  26. A Thousand Miles from Home
  27. The Campsite
  28. Summer on the Coast
  29. The Crying Mountain
  30. Seeing Red in Orange Square, Marbella
  31. Rock of Jabal al-Tariq
  32. The Room in Jessie’s Head
  33. Mama Hortense’s Singing Kitchen
  34. Closing Time at Mama’s
  35. The Alps
  36. The Fêted House of Medici, Florence
  37. Continental Shift, Turkey
  38. The Silken Road
  39. Letter from the Court of Jessie at Ölüdeniz
  40. Summer of 1989: Court Budget
  41. Dreams of a Faraway Place
  42. A Trip Down Memory Lane
  43. Old Istanbul
  44. Eighteenth-century Slave Market
  45. In the Sultan’s Seraglio
  46. Life after the Camp Deserter
  47. The Front Line
  48. Güle, Güle, Ölüdeniz
  49. The Ocean Floor
  50. Eastern Anatolia
  51. Slipping into the Middle East
  52. The Supreme Court of ‘Justice’
  53. Antipodean Dreamtime
  54. The Glorious Gulf
  55. Epilogue: Under the Carpet at Windsor
  56. Acknowledgements
  57. Read more
  58. Read more
  59. Read more
  60. Read more
  61. THIS IS JUST THE BEGINNING

wrenched out of my arms by blood-sucking bats?

I’d inherited something in my genes:

send a herd of elephants to stampede all over me

and I’ll not be crushed. Maureen McCarthy

kindly took me in – St Ann’s alumni,

cashier at Haycroft’s Ironmongers,

in town while I looked after her kid and mine.

Once a month we went to the Mecca Ballroom

to hear Jimmy Saville spin the decks.

Then I discovered Ella Fitzgerald and started to mime.

Hate memories, me, they won’t let you alone.

Didn’t even own a pair of knickers till I was sixteen,

clothes doled out by laundry according to size.

Saturdays, when normal people, when families

went on picnics to the countryside, after

our breakfast of bread, porridge and cocoa,

the dirty laundry came out. I’d have to light

the fire underneath the old stone copper, being the

eldest, chuck in the clothes, pull them out,

run them through the mangle, starch them, hang

them up to dry in time for a dull dinner of spam

and hot vegetables from the kitchen garden,

mustard pickles and dried bananas for dessert,

left over from the war stockpiles, unluckily for us. If

you were naughty, you got condensed milk scraped

on bread all weekend. Saturday afternoons we

spent black-leading, polishing the kitchen range,

white-stoning the hearth, mopping floors.

Tried aborting with the vacuum-cleaner hose,

preferable to a coat hanger, which was all the rage

in those days, but what was I thinking?

God forbid and thank God it didn’t work, aye.

Once a month I was given two bob

to go to Mrs Fox’s Toffee Shop at end of road,

buy a bag for everyone to share.

At Christmas, half a crown each to choose

from F. W. Woolworth & Co. Ltd in town –

courtesy of the Good Charitable Ladies of Leeds.

Now that was our heaven,

our paradise, our

Communion with God, our

short-lived happiness.

Penguin walking logo

Café des Fantômes, Paris

Bronzed Art Deco floor circa – 1920s.

Indian-red armchairs circa – 1940s.

Frosted-glass counter on mahogany-panelled bar,

fresh yellow rose in a twisted clay vase,

starched waiter hovered, with a greased handlebar.

After a night rocking Jessie as her dutiful amour,

pouring childhood’s misery into me, her one and only,

saying au revoir to her trusty welded armour,

she was softer, trusting, somewhat melancholy.

But I wasn’t the one in need of stuffing up.

I didn’t need no petit déjeuner.

O God! Crêpe flambé, steak in bilberry sauce,

waffles, pâté de foie gras, truffles,

I’m starving, Stanley, starving!

Simple breakfast will do: it’s only 8 a.m., Jessie.

If you say so – her lovely, opened face, closing down.

She flipped the menu over. Mein Führer.

Deux croissants et deux cafés, s’il vous plaît,

I instructed in punctilious schoolboy French.

Posters in the alcoves were fake – Renoir.

70s cigarette vendor displayed – Gauloises.

60s juke box droned – Charles Aznavour.