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Chapters (61)
  1. Cover
  2. About the Author
  3. PENGUIN BOOKS
  4. Dedication
  5. Epigraph
  6. The Shipwreck, 1987
  7. Heaven, Really
  8. Flying to Tower Hamlets
  9. The Coroner’s Office
  10. The Burial Ground
  11. Single at Mingles, 1988
  12. Café Italia, Soho
  13. Broadstairs-sur-la-Mer
  14. Clerken-well
  15. Fifty-one Days in Blackheath
  16. London Au Revoir
  17. La France
  18. The Freeway
  19. Hall of Mirrors, Versailles
  20. The Queen of France’s Boudoir
  21. A Caravan in a Country Lane
  22. The Convent
  23. Café des Fantômes, Paris
  24. The Camargue
  25. Morning in a French Lay-by
  26. A Thousand Miles from Home
  27. The Campsite
  28. Summer on the Coast
  29. The Crying Mountain
  30. Seeing Red in Orange Square, Marbella
  31. Rock of Jabal al-Tariq
  32. The Room in Jessie’s Head
  33. Mama Hortense’s Singing Kitchen
  34. Closing Time at Mama’s
  35. The Alps
  36. The Fêted House of Medici, Florence
  37. Continental Shift, Turkey
  38. The Silken Road
  39. Letter from the Court of Jessie at Ölüdeniz
  40. Summer of 1989: Court Budget
  41. Dreams of a Faraway Place
  42. A Trip Down Memory Lane
  43. Old Istanbul
  44. Eighteenth-century Slave Market
  45. In the Sultan’s Seraglio
  46. Life after the Camp Deserter
  47. The Front Line
  48. Güle, Güle, Ölüdeniz
  49. The Ocean Floor
  50. Eastern Anatolia
  51. Slipping into the Middle East
  52. The Supreme Court of ‘Justice’
  53. Antipodean Dreamtime
  54. The Glorious Gulf
  55. Epilogue: Under the Carpet at Windsor
  56. Acknowledgements
  57. Read more
  58. Read more
  59. Read more
  60. Read more
  61. THIS IS JUST THE BEGINNING

When Napoleon sailed the Great Mother Ship
called France, I fell prey to national amnesia

I beg of you, make of me a memory once more
Let me be known

They froze, glasses raised.
The waiter passed through them,

clearing the cutlery away, clanking
down a saucer with the bill.

L’addition, he sniffed, standing there
like a policeman while I sleepily

re-emerged into the twentieth century
and rummaged for my credit card.

make of me a memory once more

my people came out of nowhere, Joseph, were transplanted

on to on an island, and memory began with Clasford’s folks,

Ida and Wilbur, straight-backed, Presbyterian cane-cutters,

living out an obscure death in a dour studio portrait

and Evangeline Avery, Pearline’s mother, crippled

by cutlass-wielding husband George,

who ended up face down in the creek for five days,

because he wasn’t worth fishing out

my people come from a straggly, disgruntled queue

of slaves, masters and indentured servants,

of whom I was never allowed to speak –

the hoe, the road, the rape, the tongue split by a knife,

then slowly ripped apart like the tough, succulent

flesh of the yucca

shame, shame, shame Doan go raking up the past, Stanley

Pearline, born within two decades of the nineteenth century:

she could reach out of her basket,

touch its cusp with the twentieth, stroke the weals marking

her great-grandmother’s elephant-hide back

long before she and Clasford moved to London, and taught me

to honour my parents but not those who went before,

stuffed anonymously into an airless attic trunk

with moth-eaten clothes and discarded mementoes

shame, shame, shame

Clasford always said that Jamaica delivered him and England

destroyed him, but he was wrong, Joseph, you see

both formed him – one with the sun, the other with rain

as you were the bastard son of the islands and La France

and you dared to make that difference your own,

so I will discover my difference and make it my own

Penguin walking logo

The Camargue

Take a risk, come with me –

To where the chests of valleys have collapsed with their final prehistoric breath

Miles of wispy conifer plantations, spines bending with the wind in a parade of arbour-aerobics

Freshly burnt clumps of bulrushes heaped alongside the sinewy tongues of canals

Soft-flowing meadows where hay has yet to be scythed down into spiked and angry stubble

Flamingos gather on mud flats, rubbery necks flopped over as their bills search for food in the shallows

Corps de ballet

Scarlet skies

The Camargue at dawn

Savannahs of rice paddies, as if Vietnam; salt-pans and pyramids, as if Egypt

Bulls’ heads nailed to the doors of the herdsmen’s thatched cabanes – a tribal motif

Choreography of wild white horses charging across marsh and pasture

Listen –

To the hypnotic chug of the car’s engine, like a damaged third lung

To the pursed whistle of oxygen coming in fast through the open windows