Back Soul Tourists Save as PDF
Chapters (61)
  1. Cover
  2. About the Author
  3. PENGUIN BOOKS
  4. Dedication
  5. Epigraph
  6. The Shipwreck, 1987
  7. Heaven, Really
  8. Flying to Tower Hamlets
  9. The Coroner’s Office
  10. The Burial Ground
  11. Single at Mingles, 1988
  12. Café Italia, Soho
  13. Broadstairs-sur-la-Mer
  14. Clerken-well
  15. Fifty-one Days in Blackheath
  16. London Au Revoir
  17. La France
  18. The Freeway
  19. Hall of Mirrors, Versailles
  20. The Queen of France’s Boudoir
  21. A Caravan in a Country Lane
  22. The Convent
  23. Café des Fantômes, Paris
  24. The Camargue
  25. Morning in a French Lay-by
  26. A Thousand Miles from Home
  27. The Campsite
  28. Summer on the Coast
  29. The Crying Mountain
  30. Seeing Red in Orange Square, Marbella
  31. Rock of Jabal al-Tariq
  32. The Room in Jessie’s Head
  33. Mama Hortense’s Singing Kitchen
  34. Closing Time at Mama’s
  35. The Alps
  36. The Fêted House of Medici, Florence
  37. Continental Shift, Turkey
  38. The Silken Road
  39. Letter from the Court of Jessie at Ölüdeniz
  40. Summer of 1989: Court Budget
  41. Dreams of a Faraway Place
  42. A Trip Down Memory Lane
  43. Old Istanbul
  44. Eighteenth-century Slave Market
  45. In the Sultan’s Seraglio
  46. Life after the Camp Deserter
  47. The Front Line
  48. Güle, Güle, Ölüdeniz
  49. The Ocean Floor
  50. Eastern Anatolia
  51. Slipping into the Middle East
  52. The Supreme Court of ‘Justice’
  53. Antipodean Dreamtime
  54. The Glorious Gulf
  55. Epilogue: Under the Carpet at Windsor
  56. Acknowledgements
  57. Read more
  58. Read more
  59. Read more
  60. Read more
  61. THIS IS JUST THE BEGINNING

J Got our favourite spot at the far end of the lovely sandy beach away from the hordes, a stripy-blue umbrella, a flask, sandwiches

S I enviously watch wind surfers with their sea-butterfly wings, but I won’t waste money on something I might not be very good at

J Attention-seekers, I call them

Citroens with sagging suspensions hauled Morocco’s extended families down from northern Europe as they headed towards the ferry at Algeciras, roof racks piled up with refrigerators, televisions, sound systems, all strapped on with rope.

The beaches were caked with flaked-out bodies, gunged up with cream and sweat, forming a second, shimmering, undulating skin.

S So here I be, Stanley Orville Cleve Williams, doing his thang on a never-ending holiday with a gorgeous woman, who can’t get enough of me

J I bought him the Complete Works of Dickens for his birthday. Now his head’s always stuck in it

S She snatches my book and runs off into the sea with it, again

J Come and get it, lover-man. Whooo-oooo!

S Her dimpled cheeks shimmer so sexily, I’m mesmerized (still)

J Better hurry up or Nicholas Nickleby will end up drowning, or can he swim?

S Whoever invented the thong should receive the Nobel Prize for Services to Mankind

J What about Oliver Twist? I reckon that wretched little mite needs a good bath. Or did they have jacuzzis in the workhouse?

S I chase after her to retrieve it, jumping up and down like a madman while she dangles it out of my reach

J Back at our spot, he tickles me as revenge. I’m begging him to stop, tears streaming

S I want ice cream! she screams until I give in out of sheer embarrassment and go get some. When I return, David Copperfield is buried face down in the sand

Gangs of leather-clad riders wrapped in black sunglasses and seated on low-slung motorbikes cruised along the coast with unhelmeted recklessness, as if the trip from Germany had taken but an hour and they were really winged raiders in a sci-fi movie.

Package-tour coaches converged, clogging up the coast’s arteries, offloading pasty-faced hopefuls outside the forecourts of sprawling resorts and ferrying them back with blistered noses and infrared shoulders from Marbella and Fuengirola to the airport, thereon back to the North’s insipid sun and inevitable drizzle.

J When I wake up, he’s here. When I turn around, he’s here. When I go to sleep, he’s here. Can’t believe my good fortune

S Minutes give birth to hours, hours to days, days to weeks, weeks to months

J Too hot for the beach now – we sit under the awning of the caravan with bags of ice on our heads

S Let’s drive to the upland village of Mijas tomorrow, I suggest, licking up iced water as it tumbles over my lips