Back Soul Tourists
Chapters (61)
  1. Cover
  2. About the Author
  3. PENGUIN BOOKS
  4. Dedication
  5. Epigraph
  6. The Shipwreck, 1987
  7. Heaven, Really
  8. Flying to Tower Hamlets
  9. The Coroner’s Office
  10. The Burial Ground
  11. Single at Mingles, 1988
  12. Café Italia, Soho
  13. Broadstairs-sur-la-Mer
  14. Clerken-well
  15. Fifty-one Days in Blackheath
  16. London Au Revoir
  17. La France
  18. The Freeway
  19. Hall of Mirrors, Versailles
  20. The Queen of France’s Boudoir
  21. A Caravan in a Country Lane
  22. The Convent
  23. Café des Fantômes, Paris
  24. The Camargue
  25. Morning in a French Lay-by
  26. A Thousand Miles from Home
  27. The Campsite
  28. Summer on the Coast
  29. The Crying Mountain
  30. Seeing Red in Orange Square, Marbella
  31. Rock of Jabal al-Tariq
  32. The Room in Jessie’s Head
  33. Mama Hortense’s Singing Kitchen
  34. Closing Time at Mama’s
  35. The Alps
  36. The Fêted House of Medici, Florence
  37. Continental Shift, Turkey
  38. The Silken Road
  39. Letter from the Court of Jessie at Ölüdeniz
  40. Summer of 1989: Court Budget
  41. Dreams of a Faraway Place
  42. A Trip Down Memory Lane
  43. Old Istanbul
  44. Eighteenth-century Slave Market
  45. In the Sultan’s Seraglio
  46. Life after the Camp Deserter
  47. The Front Line
  48. Güle, Güle, Ölüdeniz
  49. The Ocean Floor
  50. Eastern Anatolia
  51. Slipping into the Middle East
  52. The Supreme Court of ‘Justice’
  53. Antipodean Dreamtime
  54. The Glorious Gulf
  55. Epilogue: Under the Carpet at Windsor
  56. Acknowledgements
  57. Read more
  58. Read more
  59. Read more
  60. Read more
  61. THIS IS JUST THE BEGINNING

They bring a bottle of vodka and a box of Ferrero Rocher chocolates for Jessie. She thanks them with an exuberant performance of ‘Bali Ha’i’, again.

The three university students from Rotterdam scuttle over: Toos, Wieneke and Anja, who want a bit of Turkish, and get it most nights at the Turkish Delights Disco on the main beach. They bring roll-ups, hangovers, caustic wine and girly gossip.

The highlight of my week is going to the bazaar in Fethiye. I’ve become rather proficient at haggling. While Jessie is brought a stool, mint çay in a miniature glass and invariably an offer of marriage by some balding market trader, I wander between sacks of beans, nuts, barley and the most dazzling array of spices known to man, exercising my favourite Turkish words: Çok pahali – very expensive.

The Cow Lady, who won’t give her name, submerged in layers and scarves, tends cows in the grazing ground up the road. She says to Jessie, ‘You güzel’, and nods at me to concur. I was reading Bleak House from my Complete Works of Dickens one afternoon when she picked it up, weighed it in her hand and decided with much gravity, ‘This, good book.’ She brings the exoticism of having a real peasant in our midst, as well as a sack of oranges, which she dumps at Jessie’s feet.

My nemesis-in-waiting is Sunita from Tooting Bec. She’s on her way to India, where she wants to find her roots, and arrived a month ago intending to stay a weekend – the longest one in history. She recites poems by someone called Audre Lorde to Jessie, who milks it. Sunita has pitched her tent directly opposite our cabin and gives me the evil eye. When I complain, I’m brushed off with ‘She’s harmless. A nice kid. Don’t be such a spoilsport.’

Sunita brings a half-drunk bottle of raki, slurred speech and a hopeless crush.

The Court sits in a semicircle around the throne. They are enraptured by anecdotes about army bases in Germany, Rod’s little scam, Nancy Pants in working men’s clubs, the time Matilda was flooded out to sea in Spain, with Jessie clinging on to the roof rack.

Osman, a restaurant owner from Ankara, has a mop of curly black hair and wears shorts and yellow Wellington boots. He brings a red rose for Jessie between his teeth and she sings ‘Summertime’ for him. Summertime and the living is excruciating. Fish are drooling and my lover’s on her high horse. I should know the words inside out by now.

I have a bottle of raki myself, which I’m quickly depleting. It’s secreted under my chair.