Back Soul Tourists
Chapters (61)
  1. Cover
  2. About the Author
  3. PENGUIN BOOKS
  4. Dedication
  5. Epigraph
  6. The Shipwreck, 1987
  7. Heaven, Really
  8. Flying to Tower Hamlets
  9. The Coroner’s Office
  10. The Burial Ground
  11. Single at Mingles, 1988
  12. Café Italia, Soho
  13. Broadstairs-sur-la-Mer
  14. Clerken-well
  15. Fifty-one Days in Blackheath
  16. London Au Revoir
  17. La France
  18. The Freeway
  19. Hall of Mirrors, Versailles
  20. The Queen of France’s Boudoir
  21. A Caravan in a Country Lane
  22. The Convent
  23. Café des Fantômes, Paris
  24. The Camargue
  25. Morning in a French Lay-by
  26. A Thousand Miles from Home
  27. The Campsite
  28. Summer on the Coast
  29. The Crying Mountain
  30. Seeing Red in Orange Square, Marbella
  31. Rock of Jabal al-Tariq
  32. The Room in Jessie’s Head
  33. Mama Hortense’s Singing Kitchen
  34. Closing Time at Mama’s
  35. The Alps
  36. The Fêted House of Medici, Florence
  37. Continental Shift, Turkey
  38. The Silken Road
  39. Letter from the Court of Jessie at Ölüdeniz
  40. Summer of 1989: Court Budget
  41. Dreams of a Faraway Place
  42. A Trip Down Memory Lane
  43. Old Istanbul
  44. Eighteenth-century Slave Market
  45. In the Sultan’s Seraglio
  46. Life after the Camp Deserter
  47. The Front Line
  48. Güle, Güle, Ölüdeniz
  49. The Ocean Floor
  50. Eastern Anatolia
  51. Slipping into the Middle East
  52. The Supreme Court of ‘Justice’
  53. Antipodean Dreamtime
  54. The Glorious Gulf
  55. Epilogue: Under the Carpet at Windsor
  56. Acknowledgements
  57. Read more
  58. Read more
  59. Read more
  60. Read more
  61. THIS IS JUST THE BEGINNING

‘Sensible is a dirty word to me,’ she said breathlessly, when I caught up. ‘You’re missing the point, which is to sample the freeway. What do you see stuck in a plane? Clouds! Thousands of miles in a few hours. Not natural.’

‘But convenient,’ I countered.

She slowed down. We walked together, heads bowed into a stirring wind that demanded respect, or else we’d be airborne to Calais. The sea air was affecting the tenor of our conversation. I could feel something being released.

‘If you’re in a hurry, but I won’t be. I loved touring, even though some of the B & Bs were of a kind where the landladies turned the sheets over in between guests, a toilet brush was likely to be caked with brown bits or your mug of tea in the morning was stained with someone else’s lipstick. We all loved Lily’s Guest House on the edge of the Yorkshire moors. Put your photo into the silver frame on the piano just before you were due to arrive.’

We had reached the promenade, home to two iron benches bolted to the walls of a weather-beaten, planked-off caff. I faced the sea, felt my lungs expand.

‘Go on, let it out,’ she urged me. ‘Scream – I am free! I am free! I am free!’

Down in the water, fishing boats banged against each other with a sound like the soft pads of African drums, building to a ritualistic crescendo against the wooden stakes of the pier.

I tried to scream but ended up choking. After all, if anyone had been around they would stare, and, although they’d be strangers I’d never see again, that was enough to stop me.

Still, I tried again and yelped like a dying sheepdog run over by a speeding truck. On the third attempt she joined me and I rode on her volume, then matched it and finally surpassed it. It was a pure Stanley Moment. One I will never forget. It had taken thirty-four years, nine months, three weeks and, yes, four days.

When the wind began to sprinkle spit on to our faces, we headed back towards the car. I’d lost almost a stone, well, about twelve pounds to be more precise.

‘I’ve never stayed in a B & B,’ I said, getting into the passenger seat, rubbing my hands together. ‘Only in hotels as part of package holidays, Tenerife, Lanzarote, Jamaica, but that was with family, West Berlin once and –’

‘Germany?’ she cut in. ‘I toured British Army bases in Germany once in my car. Those farmers trim their fields with nail scissors. Bavaria was like driving on to the set of The Sound of Music. Any moment you expected Julie Andrews to come dancing over a hill with a guitar in one hand and a load of blonde Heidis skipping behind her.’