‘What about the rest of your trek? Was that good?’ I ask, pushing through the unexpected lump that’s formed in my throat and willing them to have had a positive experience despite the hardship of the challenge.

‘Oh yeah,’ nods Betsy with great enthusiasm. ‘Although she decided to fall up the steps one day and scare the living life out of me!’ She points at Gillian who grimaces in return, covering her face with her hands.

‘You know I’ve always been clumsy,’ Gillian says, waving the air in front of her so as to bat away the attention she’s getting.

‘We promised each other, no dying on this trip,’ says Betsy.

‘I’m still here, aren’t I?’ Gillian argues back before grabbing her friend for a cuddle.

‘Just about,’ she tuts, before tickling an unexpecting Gillian, causing her to jump and squeal in shock.

Sammi puts her arm over my shoulder and lets out a long sigh.

‘God, you smell good,’ she says, breathing me in before snatching her arm away. ‘I can’t be around you when I smell this bad.’ She pulls her arms into her body and turns up her nose while looking down at her lived-in trekking clothes – a feeling I can relate to.

‘Wait until you get to the hotel. Getting in that shower has to be one of the top five moments of the trip.’

She laughs.

‘Right, my lot,’ calls Scott while flashing a smile at the other team as a greeting. ‘We’re off.’

We say our goodbyes, knowing we’ll be seeing them inside anyway, and follow our leader to join a queue that’s formed by the entrance.

‘How many visitors come here?’ Vicky asks.

‘Each day?’ asks Scott. ‘A few thousand. Roughly one and a half million a year and they’re always looking for ways to increase it.’

‘Jesus!’ I say in reply.

‘That’s a lot of foot-fall for somewhere so sacred,’ says Mike.

‘You’re not the first to say that,’ says Scott, looking like he’s about to say something he shouldn’t. ‘It’s changed a lot over the years with these morning and afternoon slots. Definitely more of a conveyer-belt feel to it at times. Although it’s the way some guests behave here that’s the real problem. Going where they shouldn’t, urinating behind rocks, vandalizing stuff!’

‘No,’ Vicky says, her face screwed up at the thought.

‘So disgusting,’ I mutter.