‘What did I tell you? There’s nothing wrong with your appetite that a bit of sea air wouldn’t solve,’ says Valentine cheerfully, sprinkling salt and vinegar on his wife’s chips. ‘Is there, love?’

He’s not fooling anyone, least of all himself. It’s apparent to us all that Gisele can only manage a few mouthfuls, but Valentine is determinedly upbeat. Dancing together again was an unexpected gift – nothing is going to spoil today.

We leave them sitting together on the front and walk up to explore the abbey set on the hill, Harry at our heels. The path weaves up to the soaring Gothic ruins, with their stunning sea views. No wonder Bram Stoker chose to set his horror novel here; it couldn’t be more atmospheric.

Or ripe for trying to frighten the living daylights out of us, as Will larks around, jumping out from behind the ruins, doing a terrible Dracula impression.

We laugh and shriek and take too many photos, which they immediately post to Instagram. I send one to Naomi, who messages:

Fang-tastic!

Count me in!

This proves exactly why we’re friends.

We’re both a pain in the neck.

To which I reply with a funny vampire meme, as I’m with young people and they know about these things.

It’s fun being with Maya and Will and, for their part, they don’t seem to mind me tagging along, playing third wheel. They talk about bands I’ve never heard of and Will’s backpacking antics, which, frankly, I wish I’d never heard about, while discussing summer festivals and future plans.

‘I’m sure I failed.’ Maya is still fretting about her exams.

‘You’re not going to fail them,’ I tell her as we stop to admire the view. ‘And anyway, I thought you weren’t going to uni, so what does it matter what grades you get?’

‘Why wouldn’t you go to uni?’ frowns Will. ‘It was the best three years of my life.’

‘Because I don’t want to spend three years partying,’ quips Maya. ‘I want to change the world.’

‘Oh yeah?’ He looks at her with interest. ‘And how do you plan on doing that?’

‘By protesting and going on marches.’

‘Do you really think that changes anything?’

‘Ask Greta Thunberg.’

‘She’s probably too busy talking to world leaders.’ He grins and I watch Maya loosen. ‘I’m not saying marches don’t work, but I think it’s easier to change the world from the inside than protesting from the outside. That’s why I did a law degree – I’m going to be an environmental lawyer.’

‘You are?’ Now it’s Maya’s turn to look with interest. Until now, a degree had seemed so pointless. Studying law isn’t something she’s ever considered and I can see it’s a revelation.

‘Yeah, I’m starting a paid internship with one of the big rewilding and climate-change charities in September.’

And just like that, without knowing it, Will does what nagging parents and private tutors could never do. He changes Maya’s mind.

Later that afternoon we leave to head home, with the smell of the sea and fish and chips and sunshine clinging to us. It’s a two-hour drive and we spend the journey sharing photos and funny moments, talking over each other and laughing, in the way old friends do.