The irony is not lost on Anouk, whose excitement has reached near-manic proportions as she flits in and out of the chocolaterie – to see the snow, or so she says, but she and I know she is waiting for Roux – and I guess that the sudden flashes of iridescence in her colours are born, not from pleasure, but from an energy that must be discharged, or risk burning her up like a paper lantern.

Roux is not here. Not yet, at least – and now it is time for Vianne to serve dinner.

With some reluctance, she begins. It’s early yet, and he may still come – his place is set at the end of the table, and if anyone asks, she will say that this is the place set to honour the dead, an old tradition that echoes the Día de los Muertos, quite appropriate for this evening’s celebration.

We begin with an onion soup as smoky and fragrant as autumn leaves, with croutons and grated Gruyère and a sprinkle of paprika over the top. She serves and watches me throughout, waiting, perhaps, for me to produce from thin air an even more perfect confection that will cast her effort into the shade.

Instead I eat, and talk, and smile, and compliment the chef, and the chink of crockery goes through her head, and she feels slightly dazed, not quite herself. Well, pulque is a mysterious brew, and the punch is liberally spiked with it, courtesy of Yours Truly, of course, in honour of the joyful occasion. As comfort, perhaps, she serves more punch, and the scent of the cloves is like being buried alive, and the taste is like chillies spiced with fire, and she wonders, will it ever end?

The second course is sweet foie gras, sliced on thin toast with quinces and figs. It’s the snap that gives this dish its charm, like the snap of correctly tempered chocolate, and the foie gras melts so lingeringly in the mouth, as soft as praline truffle, and it is served with a glass of ice-cold Sauternes that Anouk disdains, but which Rosette sips in a tiny glass no larger than a thimble, and gives her rare and sunny smile, and signs impatiently for more.

The third course is a salmon baked en papillote and served whole, with a Béarnaise sauce. Alice complains she is nearly full, but Nico shares his plate with her, feeding her titbits and laughing at her minuscule appetite.

Then comes the pièce de résistance: the goose, long roasted in a hot oven so that the fat has melted from the skin, leaving it crisp and almost caramelized, and the flesh so tender it slips off the bones like a silk stocking from a lady’s leg. Around it there are chestnuts and roast potatoes, all cooked and crackling in the golden fat.