Chapters (58)
- Cover
- Also by Oliver Harris
- ONE
- TWO
- THREE
- FOUR
- FIVE
- SIX
- SEVEN
- EIGHT
- NINE
- TEN
- ELEVEN
- TWELVE
- THIRTEEN
- FOURTEEN
- FIFTEEN
- SIXTEEN
- SEVENTEEN
- EIGHTEEN
- NINETEEN
- TWENTY
- TWENTY-ONE
- TWENTY-TWO
- TWENTY-THREE
- TWENTY-FOUR
- TWENTY-FIVE
- TWENTY-SIX
- TWENTY-SEVEN
- TWENTY-EIGHT
- TWENTY-NINE
- THIRTY
- THIRTY-ONE
- THIRTY-TWO
- THIRTY-THREE
- THIRTY-FOUR
- THIRTY-FIVE
- THIRTY-SIX
- THIRTY-SEVEN
- THIRTY-EIGHT
- THIRTY-NINE
- FORTY
- FORTY-ONE
- FORTY-TWO
- FORTY-THREE
- FORTY-FOUR
- FORTY-FIVE
- FORTY-SIX
- FORTY-SEVEN
- FORTY-EIGHT
- FORTY-NINE
- FIFTY
- FIFTY-ONE
- FIFTY-TWO
- FIFTY-THREE
- FIFTY-FOUR
- FIFTY-FIVE
- ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I was in the country ostensibly to learn who controlled its mountain passes. Someone in Vauxhall had identified this as important – China was using Tajikistan as a bridge to the Middle East – and I was happy to spend a couple of weeks based in the capital, Dushanbe, heading to the mountains when I could. On the way back to Dushanbe one time, I decided to return through the Yagnob valley to see if I could find the isolated village of Yagnob itself. People there were said to be descendants of people from the ancient kingdom of Samarkand. They spoke a language that hadn’t changed significantly in five thousand years. When they prayed, it wasn’t towards Mecca but in the direction of the highest mountain peak, the stepping stone to heaven.
I didn’t find any Yagnobi. I ended up deeper into the valley than I probably should have done, especially on a raw February night. When I bumped into a crew of Russian soldiers, I was low on food and water, and almost relieved to see them. I still had vodka and cigarettes, and this, combined with the fact that they were strung out on heroin, saved me from summary execution. They invited me to their camp.
The camp was a dirt-walled hole in the ground. I was led between sandbags into something resembling a First World War trench, where everyone was wasted and they were using fuel barrels to make moonshine. Reza sat among it all, serene, pupils constricted to pinpoints. I thought he was one of the locals, in his filthy kaftan and turban and beard. Then I heard his accent. He reminded me of pictures I’d seen of British special forces in Yemen in the 1940s, looking as if the desert wind had whittled them down to a foreign core.
He spent a long time assessing me, trying to establish which intelligence service was operating on his territory. We ate around a table with a carpet on top and embers burning beneath it. They melted snow for water. Every few mouthfuls someone would raise a toast and we’d knock back another fifty millilitres of vodka. When the Russians sank into oblivion, Reza proposed we borrow their motorbikes and go up the mountain. That was fine by me.
I remembered him howling into rain at the peak.
‘This is it, right? This is what I call getting off base.’