‘The Anangu believe in the creation of the region by ancestral beings, and that they are direct descendants of those beings. They care for the land using their Tjukurpa – Anangu laws.’

He could see from her profile that she was reliving memories and concepts she’d spent time considering.

He considered it too. ‘I still think they must find it pretty hard to get that across in today’s society.’

‘Yes, it’s ongoing, but their people are finding ways to gain support from the government now. Fewer tourists are climbing Uluru – it will be closed completely to climbing soon – and more are hearing the stories and walking the base track.’

He remembered something she’d said earlier and asked, ‘Is that why you walk the base? To respect the local communities?’

‘I have no need to climb Uluru, the same as I wouldn’t want to climb Westminster Abbey. If an elder offers to show me the beauty of a hidden spot, though, I am respectfully thrilled. The Anangu have immense and detailed knowledge of everything in the history of the park. The flora, fauna, habitats, seasonal changes and landscapes. Even today, a lot of this knowledge remains unrecorded. That’s why conserving oral history and tradition is vital to the wellbeing of Anangu culture, and to the ongoing management of the park.’ She waved her hand. ‘I warned you. I get emotive.’

‘You know a lot about it.’

She scoffed. ‘That’s only the tip of the iceberg. Or out here, the tip of Uluru. The biggest part is underground and can’t be seen.’

He turned to look ahead at the red earth and scrub that never seemed to end. It felt like the two of them were on a deserted planet of ochre sand and blue sky. Leaning his head back, he mused, ‘What was it like growing up in the centre?’

‘Hot in the day and cold at night. Wonderful. An adventure.’ She gestured with her arm. ‘Being blessed by good fortune despite the constant threat of drought. Great people. Diverse people: on the stations, in the communities, and the travellers passing through.’ She shrugged.

The answer was a good one. Open and giving, like her. Right then, he fell a little more under her spell. ‘So how did Setabilly Station start?’ he asked.

She gave him another one of her smiles. ‘My great-grandfather’s family settled there. Then my grandparents met in Alice, when Granny Mim was nursing. Pops had been thrown from a camel, in a race. She said it was love at first sight. We think he saw an indomitable woman to found his dynasty with and pounced on her. He was second generation on Setabilly.’

He watched her face soften as she talked about her grandparents.