Just before we climb into the raft, I finally get a chance to check out the scenery. Which is spectacular. There are high mountains all around us, with peaks like the points of a crown. Awesome. The clear mountain water, rushing around rocks and boulders, sounds like a distant crowd cheering. Across the river, tall fir trees line the water’s edge like a row of dull green sentries. The ravine walls are higher and steeper than I expected, especially on the opposite shore. And it’s just us. Not another raft in sight. Feels like we’re all alone in the world. Us and the river and the unspoiled scenery. Not a bad feeling, and just scary enough to be exciting.

One by one, as our names are called, we pile into the big raft. Sky passes out paddles and shows us how to dip the blades and pull, but not too deep. “First rule of raft club, stay in the raft! Okay, for purposes of steering, you will be divided into two teams, left and right. Deke, Tony, and Cindi, you are Team Blue. Mia, Daniel, Imani, and me, we are Team Red. Got it? Today I’ll be the raft commander and shout out directions. Okay? Everybody good? Here goes! Shove off!”

The current sweeps us away from shore, and the big raft starts spinning. Sky finally gets us pointed in the right direction by shouting “Red” or “Blue.” At first I’m afraid to use my paddle—I really, really don’t want to fall out of the raft—but then I start to get the hang of it.

It’s fun!

At the first turn, we’re almost swept up onto the rocky shore. At the last moment, we manage to get the raft back into the middle of the river. “Well done!” Sky exclaims. “You’re getting the hang of it. Two more turns and we’ll find the rapids. Or they’ll find us!”

He explains this is how the river got its name. So many crazy twists and turns.

We manage to keep the raft centered through both turns, and then, suddenly, we start to pick up speed, like we’re sliding down a slippery ladder. Going faster and faster. I hear it before we see it, the roar of the white-water rapids.