Back West of the Jordan Save as PDF
Chapters (45)
  1. Cover
  2. Dedication
  3. Make It Delicious
  4. PART ONE
  5. 1 HALA Going Home
  6. 2 MAWAL Nawara
  7. 3 SORAYA Fire
  8. 4 KHADIJA Sand and Fire
  9. PART TWO
  10. 5 HALA Mourning
  11. 6 MAWAL Crossing
  12. 7 SORAYA Visas
  13. 8 MAWAL Flowers from My Roza
  14. 9 KHADIJA School
  15. 10 HALA White
  16. 11 HALA Weddings
  17. 12 SORAYA Success
  18. 13 MAWAL America
  19. 14 KHADIJA Birthday
  20. 15 SORAYA The American Dream
  21. 16 KHADIJA Social Studies
  22. 17 SORAYA Fancy-Dance Man
  23. 18 HALA Sharif
  24. 19 MAWAL Looking
  25. 20 HALA Aqaba
  26. 21 HALA Visiting
  27. 22 MAWAL The Beautiful Gift
  28. 23 KHADIJA Traditions
  29. 24 HALA Dress Up
  30. 25 HALA Backgammon
  31. PART THREE
  32. 26 KHADIJA Sleeping Over
  33. 27 SORAYA Love Story/Remembering Story
  34. 28 KHADIJA Mothers
  35. 29 MAWAL Maziuna
  36. 30 SORAYA Clouds
  37. 31 KHADIJA Long Distance
  38. 32 HALA Old Men
  39. PART FOUR
  40. 33 HALA Naked Underneath
  41. 34 MAWAL Safe
  42. 35 KHADIJA Fire
  43. 36 SORAYA Just Down the Road
  44. 37 HALA Bare Walls
  45. Acknowledgments

Finally, we reach the top. Fawziyya and I stop and stare. We are young, fit, totally out of breath and drenched in sweat, and in front of us there is a hundred-year-old hunched-over lady who has chairs and tables set up and is selling sodas from under an umbrella.

“She must have a secret way up,” Fawziyya says as soon as she can catch her breath.

We drink warm Pepsis and stand before the actual Place of Sacrifice: a circle of mud raised among stones and covered with markers.

I look beyond it and see the rocks still go up higher. “Maybe there is something more,” I say, and Fawziyya follows me up, up, but it’s not steep like the steps; this time it is just a smooth slant of gray-black-purple rocks that look like nothing I have seen before. We are higher than anything else. We are looking down on the tops of the other mountains. My cousin suddenly holds me close to her hot body, perhaps thinking I am going to fall off the edge. We are in the sky so high that we are on the same level as the blue, and when we sit down, we see a lizard, as big as my arm and clear blue, the color of the sky.

“He wants to fit in,” Fawziyya says. We stare at it awhile, willing it to come closer, but it gets tired of us and goes between the rocks.

My shirt is drenched and sticky and it makes me feel sick and clammy. I look around and can see no one—so far that it seems we are the only living creatures, except for the lizard and for God. It is completely quiet, so we will hear if someone comes. I take off my shirt and bra and then my pants as well. Fawziyya just stares at me.

“What are you doing?” she practically shouts. “What if someone sees you?”

“Who is going to see me? Besides, it’s so quiet that we’ll hear if anyone comes this way.”

I don’t say anything else, but as I lay my clothes out flat on the rocks to dry, my cousin strips down to her underpants, bra, and undershirt, and lies back slowly on a rock, letting her skin get used to its heat. We let the sun tickle us for what seems like hours, but is probably five or ten minutes—long enough that our clothes dry. When we come back down again, my legs feel like rubber bands. We find Abu Salwan sitting in the shade with two Bedouin men.

“Thank God you are back safely. How was it?” Abu Salwan asks.

“I have never seen anything more beautiful,” I say. “And we saw the most incredible lizard!”