Now, this textured milk chocolate is not a fragile surface ornament, as is the case with so many of the crasser candies, but instead constitutes the greater portion of the bar. Begin where you will—the top, sides, or the base—and proceed, nibbling cautiously, through a full half-inch of this delectable concoction. Gentle inquiry with the tongue at this point is rewarded by the magnified sensitivity of anticipation. As you approach the center, the mysterious heart, the final, minute crust of the chocolate breaks away and is absorbed slowly in your saliva. Now is the time: lift the bar to eye level for examination. There, among the chiseled excavations, a tiny break has appeared, about half an incisor in width. There, instead of the predictable darkness of the ordinary crack or fault, is a tiny leak of white, gleaming coolly in the surrounding chocolate. In the next delicious moments, carefully remove still more of the dark wall encasing this bright secret, this snowy core, this glacial mystery. It is smooth, balanced in its nature on the brink of flowing, but never yielding. The first touch of the very tip of the tongue to this pale miracle induces a moment of surprise, a reorienting of the senses after the relative roughness of the surrounding case. The texture of the white center is silky, not as resilient as young flesh. If the first ice cream, sweetened with honey and loaded with eggs, were somehow transformed from its basic nature and could retain its prime firmness at room temperature, the effect would be not unlike this delectable magma at the core of the Volcano Bar. But the texture is augmented by a flavor of such sweetness, concentrating such intense sensation on those small areas of the tongue that respond to that stimulus alone, that it borders on pain. And inextricable from this sweetness is the redolence of pure vanilla. There is no confusion of tangs, no multiplicity of artificial fruits or distillations of bitter purple flowers to clutter the response and mangle the attentive nerve endings with irrelevant messages. This one clear note, sounded in the subtle passages of the sinus, reverberates a devastating joy.