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Contents ( 49)
  1. Contents
  2. Editor’s Note
  3. I
  4. Ned: The Early Years
  5. 1927–37: Stump Creek, West Virginia
  6. Hallelujah on the Bum
  7. How It Was
  8. Drunk in the Afternoon
  9. Journal IV
  10. II
  11. Ed: The Early Years
  12. From The Fool’s Progress
  13. From The Brave Cowboy
  14. Manhattan Twilight, Hoboken Night
  15. Author’s Introduction to Desert Solitaire
  16. The First Morning
  17. The Serpents of Paradise
  18. Polemic: Industrial Tourism and the National Parks
  19. Tukuhnikivats, the Island in the Desert
  20. Appalachian Pictures
  21. Appalachia, Good-bye
  22. My Life as a P.I.G., or The True Adventures of Smokey the Cop
  23. III
  24. Ed Moves On
  25. From Black Sun
  26. 1971–77: Henry in Love—An Interlude
  27. The Wooden Shoe Conspiracy
  28. The Raid at Comb Wash
  29. Death Valley Junk
  30. Meeting the Bear
  31. Aravaipa Canyon
  32. IV
  33. Postlude
  34. A Colorado River Journal
  35. From Good News
  36. Desert Images
  37. The Damnation of a Canyon
  38. Gather at the River
  39. River Solitaire
  40. Free Speech
  41. Theory of Anarchy
  42. Eco-Defense
  43. A Writer’s Credo
  44. Immigration and Liberal Taboos
  45. Abbey The Fool’s Progress
  46. Postlude
  47. A Few Words in Memory of Edward Abbey
  48. A Selected Bibliography of Works by Edward Abbey
  49. Acknowledgments

In the summer and fall of 1967 I worked as a seasonal park ranger at the new Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. During my five-month tour of duty I worked at the main marina and headquarters area called Wahweap, at Bullfrog Basin toward the upper end of the reservoir and finally at Lee’s Ferry downriver from Glen Canyon Dam. In a number of powerboat tours I was privileged to see almost all of our nation’s newest, biggest and most impressive “recreational facility.”

Having thus seen Glen Canyon both before and after what we may fairly call its damnation, I feel that I am in a position to evaluate the transformation of the region caused by construction of the dam. I have had the unique opportunity to observe firsthand some of the differences between the environment of a free river and a power-plant reservoir.

From Beyond the Wall: Essays from the Outside (1984)

One should admit at the outset to a certain bias. Indeed I am a “butterfly chaser, googly eyed bleeding heart and wild conservative.” I take a dim view of dams; I find it hard to learn to love cement; I am poorly impressed by concrete aggregates and statistics in the cubic tons. But in this weakness I am not alone, for I belong to that ever-growing number of Americans, probably a good majority now, who have become aware that a fully industrialized, thoroughly urbanized, elegantly computerized social system is not suitable for human habitation. Great for machines, yes. But unfit for people.

Lake Powell, formed by Glen Canyon Dam, is not a lake. It is a reservoir, with a constantly fluctuating water level—more like a bathtub that is never drained than a true lake. As at Hoover (or Boulder) Dam, the sole practical function of this impounded water is to drive the turbines that generate electricity in the powerhouse at the base of the dam. Recreational benefits were of secondary importance in the minds of those who conceived and built this dam. As a result the volume of water in the reservoir is continually being increased or decreased according to the requirements of the Basin States Compact and the power-grid system of which Glen Canyon Darn is a component.

The rising and falling water level entails various consequences. One of the most obvious, well known to all who have seen Lake Mead, is the “bathtub ring” left on the canyon walls after each drawdown of water, or what rangers at Glen Canyon call the Bathtub Formation. This phenomenon is perhaps of no more than aesthetic importance; yet it is sufficient to dispel any illusion one might have, in contemplating the scene, that you are looking upon a natural lake.

Of much more significance is the fact that plant life, because of the unstable water line, cannot establish itself on the shores of the reservoir. When the water is low, plant life dies of thirst; when high, it is drowned. Much of the shoreline of the reservoir consists of near-perpendicular sandstone bluffs, where very little flora ever did or ever could subsist, but the remainder includes bays, coves, sloping hills and the many side canyons, where the original plant life has been drowned and new plant life cannot get a foothold. And of course where there is little or no plant life there is little or no animal life.