IT TOOK ONLY ONE FULL DAY for the Darcys to settle their affairs in Venice, make arrangements for the return journey, and depart by boat for the mainland. Finding that travel over the Alps in the warmer months afforded them an easier passage via the more direct route, they retraced their steps to just beyond Brescia. Then—yielding to the advice of their hosts in Desenzano—they avoided Milan and went through Como, to the north of the lake, and thence westward at Bellinzona, rejoining their original way at Domo d’Ossola, a detour requiring almost two additional days, as the roads had not been improved on that route. At last, they were out of Italy, and thence across to Lake Geneva. Arriving at Gample late in the evening, they found that there were no beds available at the solitary post-house, and in addition to this misery, the Darcys were forced to wait an additional hour for fresh horses. By the time the horses were arrived, it was become thoroughly dark, being a cloudy night and a crescent moon. Mr. Harmon, in speaking with some of the other coachmen at the post-house, learnt that a portion of the road was fallen down between Gampel and Sierre, destroying the wall along the side nearest the precipice, and making the passage difficult to traverse safely, even in the light of day.

By the hour they were back on the road, it was nearly ten, and the carriages had a further eight miles to go before they could reach the next posting house. The inn at Gample had been dark, unkempt, and uninviting, but the alternative was considerably worse. However, there was no choice before them but to continue on the road, trusting the memory of the post-horses, and the wits of the very capable Mr. Harmon. The carriages arrived in Sierre after midnight, necessitating the additional exertion of awakening the inn-keepers. Despite having been driven from their bed, and requiring them to provide something in the way of dinner for the travellers and their servants, the aubergiste and his wife were obliging and pleasant. In less time than anyone would have thought possible, the Darcys were fed a cold, but very satisfactory, supper, and found themselves abed in surprisingly clean rooms, the linens fresh-washed, and the furniture scrubbed and commodious. Having travelled farther than expected the previous night, in the morning the family and their party slept somewhat later than usual, and had an easy journey from Sierre, through Sion, and thence to Martigny.