At this summit was a small, rustic dwelling kept by a peasant who sold refreshments, as well as curious stones and mountain plants to the collector. There was an album, contained in the dwelling, into which had been inscribed a few lines of verse by no less a personage than the Empress Josephine, describing her sensations upon reaching the Mer de Glace:

Ah! je sens qu’au millieu de ces grandes phénomènes De ces tableaux touchans, de ces terribles scènes Tout élève l’espirit, tout occupe les yeux; Le coeur seul, un moment, se repose en ces lieux.

The quatrain was dated 1810, and had been removed by some industrious soul some years previous, doubtless a detestable collector of autographs, but the registrar had retained the lines within his memory, and had faithfully recopied them into a later page. Elizabeth was moved less by the words than a somber reflection of the sad last days of the Empress, and silently wished that her isolated, remaining years had been relieved by many pleasurable memories of the journey hither. After a few minutes, the glare of the glacier became painful to the eye, and the Darcys requested that they begin to make their descent. En route homeward, the guides pointed to seemingly barren mountains that, upon closer inspection, proved to be covered with a thin, short grass and other plants, serving the villagers as summer pastures. Mr. Darcy expressed the idea that some of the Derbyshire sheep should have been brought along to witness the meagre diet of their brethren hereabouts, and be more grateful (and fat) as a consequence. The descent was very toilsome, so it was with weary gratitude and relief that Elizabeth and her husband espied their waiting mules.

CHAP. 10.

THE FOLLOWING DAY was Sunday, and, therefore, the Darcys took their rest in Chammouni. The day was inclement and—necessarily in these mountains—designated as a day of rest, regardless of one’s religious habits. Other than attending a service in the morning, Elizabeth was most ready to remain quietly within, being somewhat knocked-up by the previous day’s walk, using the hours of leisure to write her letters.

13th June
Chammouni, Switzerland

DEAR AUNT AND UNCLE GARDINER,

We are to rest here in Chammouni for some days whilst Adèle recovers from indisposition, and to own the truth, we are all grateful for the excuse to rest as well. My husband and I are quite dull to-day from a very long walk yesterday to a sea of glacial ice quite high up in the mountains, the justly famed Mer de Glace. I am done with scenes of snow and ice, and quite happily anticipate leaving it all behind in the next day or two in search of warmer climes.