The inn was a very old and queer place of seven or eight storeys, and had been built by the same Herr Stockalper for the convenience of merchants carrying cargoes over the pass. The old inn was clean and comfortable in the Swiss way, and the Darcys could well imagine the relief it had afforded the multitudes of weary travellers over the centuries, where it remained the only accommodation on the Italian side of the Simplon. They began again early the following morning, the new road winding now along the bank of the Doveria. Just past Gondo was a bridge of particularly ingenious construction, spanning the chasm into which fell a cascade of a remarkable brilliance. The glitter in the spray of the waterfall was owing to the stream issuing from the gorge at Zwischbergen, where there was a gold mine. Georgiana described the glittering rock as pyrite—not gold—originally contained within the granite, but liberated from the stone by the force of the water. Beyond Gondo, a small chapel marked the extent of the Valais, and, remarkably, the German language. Their carriages next passed through the Grand Gallery, which, like its neighbour, had been hewn through solid granite. Georgiana described it as, whilst less than seven hundred feet long, having taken a full eighteen months to complete, men labouring night and day. At the end of this gallery was the simple inscription, “Ære Italo.”

At the termination of the Grand Gallery appeared a short bridge, spanning a roaring torrent issuing from the mountain rivulets above. It was inconceivable by what ingenuity the Italian engineers had contrived to erect the bridge over such a violent rush of water. Just over the bridge lay Isella, where the family were again stopt and their belongings scattered and searched, this time by the beneficence of the Italian officials. The Darcys and their servants were become so inured to the regular searches and questions, that they not only replied politely to the impertinent questions, but the servants assisted the customs-men in their inspection, as it proved to limit the disorder caused by their searches. They next crossed the enormous ravine of the Yselles to Divedro, which, in spite of the genius of Napoleon and his engineers, yet remained impassable after heavy rains and storms because of the risk of falling stones.

Travelling under more galleries carved into the mountains, past terrific wildernesses and desolation, and over bridges of wonderful ingenuity which gave passage over the most frightful ravines and cascades with ease, the Darcys at length reached the tall, handsome bridge of Crevola, traversing the Doveria, whence in one place can be seen the barren peaks and torrents of the Gondo valley, and in the opposite direction, the soft meadows and shady groves of the valley of Ossola.

CHAP. 11.