I suppose I should next remark on the grandeur of the scenery or the wondrous works of man we have seen, but I cannot. Nature I will allow to be praised to whatever extent you please, but the works of our fellow-man are more apt to find censure in my assessments. The great monuments, paintings, buildings, &c., are surely very beautiful, and many rise to magnificence. However, everything we have seen in Italy is—to a great degree—in a such state of dirt or decay that, oft-times, all beauty and awe are left entirely behind. One is seldom able to form a very complete understanding of these master-pieces because of their deplorable condition. I do not wish to seem to congratulate ourselves at the expense of others, but I declare the British Museum at Montague House is in far better order than anything I have seen since leaving Geneva. It is not very wonderful that it should be so: the general dirty state of the houses and inns is evident, as well as the very populous state of the vermin; fleas and insects of every shape and colour are become our inseparable companions, clinging to us with an avidity akin to love. They rise with us in the mornings, secure themselves about our cloathing and belongings, travel with us all the day, and retire with us at night. I wish I could give you a better account of their faithful servitude, but I am afraid that we are all of us so querulous as to declare such generous attentions in every way disgusting. I impute their legions to the fact that men are generally employed here as chamber-maids, a most unnatural situation. What is more, what the English would regard as the common water-closet is generally hereabouts unknown, and the odours, in consequence, defy any polite power to describe. I realise that these are not the accustomary panegyrics of the traveller, but I will have no reserve from you, dearest Jane, even though you must, by now, be heartily wishing for it.

Thankfully we are to arrive to-morrow at Venice. I will not write again until I find myself in a more generous humour.

Your loving sister,

ELIZABETH DARCY