The valley beyond Martigny was rich and, the climate being much hotter than the surrounding area, produced a very strong wine, and the honey collected in the area was esteemed as the finest in all Switzerland. In general, however, the indolence of the Valaisans was apparent in the shabby appearance of the villages, unlike the tidy groups of cottages seen previously amongst the Swiss. Martigny was only otherwise notable as the location of the monastery of the monks who attend the Hospice of the Great St. Bernard, as well as that of the Simplon, where the Darcys planned a stop to see the old building and refresh themselves before continuing on their road to Italy.

The days being grown longer, the Darcys planned two long days in crossing from Martigny to Brieg, a distance of almost twenty leagues. They were very desirous of reaching Italy, and were glad to reach Martigny. Leaving early the next day, they stopt at the convent of the Hospice of the Great St. Bernard and the Simplon. The monks were of the order of St. Augustin, and regarded it as their duty to give hospitality to all who pass that way; in the winter months, they ventured out into the roads with large dogs especially trained to find lost travellers who might otherwise perish in the snow and freezing winds. The monastery was situated at the highest habitable point in Europe, about 8,000 feet above the level of the sea. The approach to it in the last hour was steep, slow, and difficult. The buildings were not visible until—when no more than a few hundred yards away—the road made a turn, and the small plain upon which were the monastery and its chapel immediately came into view. Upon the Darcy’s approaching, one of the celebrated dogs began braying. The dog was extraordinarily large, and of a white and brown colour. The monks retold stories to the Darcys of the great courage and sagacity of the dogs, having been saved themselves by the dogs’ presentiments of danger, leading their masters by a different route, and later learnt that their planned path had been destroyed by the seas of sliding snow.