It was Mr. Darcy who called attention to the immediate change in the dress of the inhabitants as they crossed from France into Switzerland, “almost as if opposite sides of the same mountain demanded an opposition of costume.” It was with some relief that the Darcys found themselves in Geneva where they, their servants, and their horses could rest before undertaking the road over the Italian Alps. The Darcy family—as planned—reached Geneva late on Saturday afternoon, descending from the mountain to the rocky banks of the river. There was an uncommonly beautiful sunset over the Jura mountains, and several boats on the lake. The vessels were a type of barge, but entirely unlike the English variety: these boats had pointed bows, two forward masts with sails criss-crossed in a most peculiar fashion, six oarsmen rowing whilst standing erect aforeships in front of the cargoes of barrels, and a tillerman at the rear. Mr. Darcy wondered at the curious construction of the vessel, and Georgiana promised him a drawing of the barques of Lac Léman, their voiturins called them; as Mr. Darcy said it was impossible to describe them in any language he knew.

As they entered their hôtel, they were met by an interminable parade of exiting English, prompting Elizabeth to remark that she felt like a small fish attempting to swim upstream against a strong current. Speaking with a few of the gentlemen, Mr. Darcy understood that these throngs of their countrymen were being turned away, as this hôtel, and every other in the city, were full! Enquiring as to what event was precipitating this influx, one gentleman replied in a very tired tone, “Did the gentleman not know that there were above 30,000 English now abroad in Europe? It should not be surprising to expect a considerable portion of them in Geneva, looking for accommodation.” As Mr. Darcy always took the precaution of sending ahead for their reception, the hôtelier of Les Balances was very gracious, and the Darcys were shewn to a suite of excellent rooms at once, the largest apartment overlooking an expansive view of the Rhône. After sitting down to a very agreeable late supper, everyone was happy to retire. The rooms, although less ornate and somewhat less spacious than those they had recently taken in Paris, were vastly cleaner, and the hôtel in every way better ordered than had been the accommodations in France.

As it was Sunday on the morrow, there was no travelling, and worship at the English church. After such a scarcity of Protestant churches in France, the Darcys were grateful to attend familiar services.