As you know, with the depredations, first, of the Terror and then of Buonaparte, my own tour did not reach into France, and I went to Italy via a more easterly route through what was, at that time, Wurtemburg, Bavaria, the Tyrol, and the Venetian State; we plan to return to England via the reverse of that route. I add, Parker, as you are such a devotee of the theatre, that the productions here in Lyon are generally believed to surpass those in London, and even Paris. The most remarkable difference here amongst the French is the attention paid the performance. Unlike our English audiences who go to the expense and trouble of securing seats merely for the sake of display and conversation, the French are most courteous and pay the actors and the production the highest compliments of silence and attention. I believe that, on the whole, despite the general French character of joie de vivre, young and old, scholars to the fashionable of both sexes, hasten to the serious theatre in preference to all other diversions. It is somewhat surprising to find that our far more reserved English society shews less respect for the tragedical subject, whilst the gay French sit in silent gravity, listening to long speeches that would have the English fast asleep, or leaving the place altogether. We English seem to require action on the stage—murder, mayhem, and general pandemonium—whilst the French are enthralled with sentimentality and fine language. The French have yet another advantage over us as regards their theatre: they have not such a great difference in the appearance and general refinement amongst the various classes, and therefore, characters of people of wealth and fashion are quite credible in those guises, whilst our poor players generally cannot belie they have but one farthing to share amongst themselves. One cannot conceive of meeting an English servant who could easily pass for a man of quality, but in France there are butlers and valets who are so polite, and possessed of such a refinement of manners and taste, that had they the proper accoutrements, they would be indistinguishable de la chose vraie.

Another remarkable aspect of the French is their closeness in conversation. They speak together in a proximity that would never be comfortable to our English notions. They speak in a loud, animated manner, and do not exhibit any of the reserve we would deem the hallmark of good-breeding. Yet, I do not find the French to be in any way more impertinent or disrespectful, simply more lively in their speech and address—my wife is quite taken with their spirit, but then Elizabeth by her own vivacity could well pass for a native here.