The town of Domo was prosperous and busy. The ancient convent of the Jesuits was of black and white marble. The whole of the place was planted with vines, growing on stone trellises, and a pergola similarly covered led to the river, beyond which were lush pastures being grazed by cattle. An hill a small distance from the centre of town was of the name Calvary, and the distance from Domo to it was lined with picturesque, round chapels, each housing a life-sized figure from the life of Jesus, at which the pious knelt to pray.

As they descended into Domo, the towns-people pointed and repeatedly cried, “Eccolo! Inglese! Inglese!” The Darcys staid at a small inn at Domo, where the food was remarkably fresh and good, especially so after the days spent in the mountains where victuals had been perforce more scarce and usually of poor quality. That evening, they enquired of some fellow travellers how the Italians knew they were English by the sight of their equipage. An older gentleman by the name of Ponti answered,

“In Italy, it is considered the height of impropriety for a woman to be seated on the outside of a carriage. Doing so shocks their notions of the deference and courtesy due to women—notwithstanding any consideration of rank. It is only the English who suffer their domestics to endure the pleasures of fresh air and the companionship of her fellow-servants on the box, as opposed to being seated within, sweltering and choaking in crowded proximity to everyone else inside, with whom she could not converse with propriety.” The other guests were content to make the usual charges against the English, those of pride and hauteur. Elizabeth could not gainsay even such a universality as that supposed, given the friendliness and courtesy with which they generally had been received; in her reflections on the reserve and self-restraint that denoted good-breeding and civility in England, such formality could easily, she thought, be translated into arrogance and pretention by a people who regarded an easy familiarity, warmth of expression, and openness of manners to be indicative of courtesy.