Back Rites of Passage
Chapters (34)
  1. Cover
  2. Sanjoy Hazarika
  3. RITES OF PASSAGE
  4. Dedication
  5. Foreword
  6. Chapter One
  7. Chapter Two
  8. Chapter Three
  9. Chapter Four
  10. Chapter Five
  11. Chapter Six
  12. Chapter Seven
  13. Chapter Eight
  14. Chapter Nine
  15. Chapter Ten
  16. Chapter Eleven
  17. Chapter Twelve
  18. Chapter Thirteen
  19. Chapter Fourteen
  20. Appendices
  21. Footnotes
  22. Chapter Three
  23. Chapter Four
  24. Chapter Six
  25. Chapter Seven
  26. Chapter Eight
  27. Chapter Nine
  28. Chapter Eleven
  29. Chapter Twelve
  30. Chapter Thirteen
  31. Chapter Fourteen
  32. Appendices
  33. Bibliography
  34. Acknowledgements

The land is bountiful, bearing fruits and crops of different varieties—oranges and grapefruits, bananas and mangoes, rice and mustard, tea and coconut, areca nut and betel leaf. During the summer rains, the place is washed clean and covered by a rich, deep green carpet which, from the air, appears to be an incredible patchwork of geometrical patterns. In the winters, the farms are, for the most part, quiet and fallow. The fields are almost barren; dust lies where rice stalks flourished in the monsoon rains, when women with saris and skirts wrapped around their legs walked with military precision through knee-deep water and slush, holding porous, delicate-looking but strong cane baskets. These baskets are fish traps but they would not look out of place as an exotic artifact in the drawing room of a wealthy family in Delhi, Bombay or Calcutta. Mud-spattered and deeply tanned from the sun and humidity, these women wear japis or cane hats on their heads and cane trays on their backs during the thunderous monsoons for protection from the heavy rain.

These are vignettes of gentleness and social peace among communities used to a slower pace of life, whose worlds are gentler and kinder than ours. Such postcard-like lives conjure up visions of South-East Asia and one would not be far wrong in linking the two. For India’s North East is where South and South-East Asia meet and merge to form new identities, rooted in either tradition and possessing a uniqueness of their own.

But with astonishing abruptness and brutality the calm of these societies is being torn apart.