It’s a tedious climb over the hill separating Big Beach from Little Beach, especially in the darkness of predawn. The steep incline of lava rock and sand are the perfect elements for a trip or tumble. But I’ve made this walk countless times in the year and a half that I’ve lived in Maui. I could do it blindfolded by now.

It’s the only way to avoid the worst of the crowds, to come on a weekday right as the sun rises. Predawn visits to Little Beach have become my go-to getaway when I need to clear my head. Having spent my whole life in Portland, I never thought I’d ever be the kind of person who found nature soothing. But the peaceful vibes of Maui’s beaches are what keep me sane. I need that today more than ever.

Last night’s argument with Mom and the crying session in my bedroom has my entire body in knots. When I woke up an hour before my alarm clock this morning, I knew I needed to ease the tension within me if I had any hope of having a decent day at work.

Before leaving, I left a note apologizing for my outburst last night on the kitchen counter and wished her a pleasant day off. I know we’ll move past this argument—we had worse arguments when I was a mouthy teenager. But having this day apart from each other will be good for the both of us. I can distract myself with work, and she can busy herself with her day-off hobbies. And then we’ll start over again tomorrow.

As soon as my toes hit the sugary sand of Little Beach, every tense muscle in my feet and calves releases. I gaze up at the sun peeking above the horizon. One glimpse at the bright orange hue kissing the deep blue shoreline, and I’m as calm as the salty air around me. Eyes closed, I hum softly.

Thank heavens for last night’s surprise rainstorm that caused the local news to send out panicked warnings to tourists. Sharks are more likely to be out in the murky waters caused by lots of rain. The truth is that even with the rain and murky waters, attacks are still rare. But nothing clears a beach of tourists faster than warnings of possible shark sightings. I’m thankful for how deserted Little Beach is this morning. Including myself, there are only three people here. This is definitely a day where I’m not in the mood to deal with a horde of phone-toting tourists elbowing one another for selfies on my way to the water. Even though we’re technically past the busy season of winter, when more than a million tourists come from all over to get away from the cold and snow, Maui is still a popular year-round vacation destination. Crowds are common almost everywhere.