We followed her into a small shop with assorted baked breads and pastries in the display case. I couldn’t afford any further carbs today, so I got an iced coffee and watched Mom and Allegra nibble on mini éclairs and biscotti. As we ventured further into the town, we stumbled upon a gorgeous basilica that dominated a plaza and marveled over the opulent gilded interior, which reminded me of a mosque. We found a beautiful park and sat on benches while we breathed in the lush scent of the plants surrounding us on all sides. Time stretched and flew by until we finally glanced at our watches and realized the late hour.

“Better head back toward the hotel,” I said, glancing around. We’d wandered past the main squares into a quieter place that was more isolated. “We need to change and get ready for dinner.”

I reached for my phone but Allegra stopped me. “No tech, remember?”

“That’s silly. I have no idea where we are.”

“Oh, we can figure it out,” my mother said, waving her hand in the air. “Let’s try this way.”

I tamped down a sigh. “Okay, but my feet are starting to kill me.”

We took a right and followed a few zigzagging streets that seemed to lead us nowhere. Now there were few people and no restaurants or shops. As we trudged along, my skin felt burnt, sweat dampened my clothes, and blisters were forming on my feet. I began to curse under my breath.

“We’re lost,” I announced. “And this isn’t fun.”

“Now who’s a complainer?” Allegra taunted. She was known to be a tad of a whiner when things didn’t go her way. I hadn’t imagined she got it from me. “Nonni’s still doing fine.”

My mother shrugged. “I told you those Jane Fonda DVDs helped.”

This time, I led and headed left. We crested hills, crossed streets, and finally came to an empty square with a few benches. In the distance, a trash can held a raging fire, and two elderly ladies were crowded round the can, looking like they were discussing the latest episode of their favorite show.

“Let’s sit down and I’ll bring up a map. I want to be found now.”

Allegra didn’t protest this time, so I knew she was done too. I grabbed my phone and opened the app, tapping a few buttons to get our home location.

“Um, Mom? Those ladies are staring at us.”

I turned my head. She was right. They seemed transfixed on us and bent their heads together, pointing wildly. Terrific. I figured they wouldn’t be a great source for directions. “Just ignore them, honey. This will take a minute.”

I got a home signal and zeroed in on our location.

“Frannie, they’re coming over here,” Mom hissed.