Like my experience in the Vatican, everything was larger in scope and power than I’d imagined, dragging me down into history I’d never experienced before. It struck me again how young America was and how Europe must look at us sometimes—these fierce babes in the woods who believed we were always right even though time had not truly tested our power.

Not yet.

We spent the morning touring the Pantheon, and around lunchtime, the group split up. The three of us decided to roam around the city for our last day in Rome and be off the clock. We sat at a café and sipped cold, fruity Pinot Grigio, splitting a pizza, salad, and a plate of fresh pears and nutty Parmesan drizzled with raw honey.

“Enzo said we’ll be visiting a family farm where they make fresh mozzarella,” Allegra said, guzzling her soda.

“What do you think of the tour so far?” I asked them. “Aren’t you glad we went with the smaller one with more customized outings?”

“It’s only our third day, Mom,” Allegra pointed out. “But, yeah, I like our group and Enzo. I was afraid they’d make us do a whole bunch of stuff we didn’t want to.”

“Many tours get kickbacks from the vendors they promise to visit,” I said.

Mom mopped her forehead with a napkin. “The only thing I’m regretting is coming in the summer. I had no idea it was this hot.”

“Drink water, less wine,” I said, pushing away the glass that still held a few more swallows. “We can go back to the room and nap for a bit if you need to.”

She snorted. “No way. I’m not missing Rome for a nap. I’ll sleep when I’m dead.”

I smiled at her familiar saying and a memory sparked. “Remember when Allegra was little and she begged you to take her to the water park?”

“You had to bring that up?”

Allegra glanced back and forth at us. “What happened? I’ve never heard this story.”

“I took you to the Little Squirts Water Park to spend an afternoon and keep us both busy,” Mom said. “I had no idea those places were like the Lord of the Flies. Kids running and screaming, water fountains blasting out everywhere, and crazy climbing mazes. I lost you within a few minutes and was terrified you’d get hurt. Besides injuries every half hour, all the moms were gathered around the tiki bar drinking.”

“Tell her the best part,” I urged.

“You had gotten yourself tangled in this rope maze at the top of the slide and couldn’t get out. You were screaming and crying for me, so I had to climb the obstacle course to get you out.”

A helpless giggle rose from my lips. “Poor Mom got to the top and freed you, but she couldn’t climb back down because of the line of kids behind her.”