Chapters (26)
- Feature
- PREFACE
- VENICE
- THE GRAND CANAL
- VENICE: AN EARLY IMPRESSION
- TWO OLD HOUSES AND THREE YOUNG WOMEN
- CASA ALVISI
- FROM CHAMBÉRY TO MILAN
- THE OLD SAINT-GOTHARD LEAVES FROM A NOTE-BOOK
- ITALY REVISITED
- A ROMAN HOLIDAY
- ROMAN RIDES
- ROMAN NEIGHBOURHOODS
- THE AFTER-SEASON IN ROME
- FROM A ROMAN NOTE-BOOK
- A FEW OTHER ROMAN NEIGHBOURHOODS
- A CHAIN OF CITIES
- SIENA EARLY AND LATE
- THE AUTUMN IN FLORENCE
- FLORENTINE NOTES
- TUSCAN CITIES
- OTHER TUSCAN CITIES
- RAVENNA
- THE SAINT'S AFTERNOON AND OTHERS
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- Copyright
Even we ourselves, in the irresistible contagion, are going so fast now that we have only time to note in how clever and costly a fashion the Museo Civico, the old Fondaco dei Turchi, has been reconstructed and restored. It is a glare of white marble without, and a series of showy majestic halls within, where a thousand curious mementos and relics of old Venice are gathered and classified. Of its miscellaneous treasures I fear I may perhaps frivolously prefer the series of its remarkable living Longhis, an illustration of manners more copious than the celebrated Carpaccio, the two ladies with their little animals and their long sticks. Wonderful indeed today are the museums of Italy, where the renovations and the belle ordonnance speak of funds apparently unlimited, in spite of the fact that the numerous custodians frankly look starved. What is the pecuniary source of all this civic magnificence - it is shown in a hundred other ways - and how do the Italian cities manage to acquit themselves of expenses that would be formidable to communities richer and doubtless less aesthetic? Who pays the bills for the expressive statues alone, the general exuberance of sculpture, with which every piazzetta of almost every village is patriotically decorated? Let us not seek an answer to the puzzling question, but observe instead that we are passing the mouth of the populous Canareggio, next widest of the waterways, where the race of Shylock abides, and at the corner of which the big colourless church of San Geremia stands gracefully enough on guard. The Canareggio, with its wide lateral footways and humpbacked bridges, makes on the feast of St. John an admirable noisy, tawdry theatre for one of the prettiest and the most infantile of the Venetian processions.