Chapters (26)
- Feature
- PREFACE
- VENICE
- THE GRAND CANAL
- VENICE: AN EARLY IMPRESSION
- TWO OLD HOUSES AND THREE YOUNG WOMEN
- CASA ALVISI
- FROM CHAMBÉRY TO MILAN
- THE OLD SAINT-GOTHARD LEAVES FROM A NOTE-BOOK
- ITALY REVISITED
- A ROMAN HOLIDAY
- ROMAN RIDES
- ROMAN NEIGHBOURHOODS
- THE AFTER-SEASON IN ROME
- FROM A ROMAN NOTE-BOOK
- A FEW OTHER ROMAN NEIGHBOURHOODS
- A CHAIN OF CITIES
- SIENA EARLY AND LATE
- THE AUTUMN IN FLORENCE
- FLORENTINE NOTES
- TUSCAN CITIES
- OTHER TUSCAN CITIES
- RAVENNA
- THE SAINT'S AFTERNOON AND OTHERS
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- Copyright
I had meant however to say nothing about her, for it's not right to speak of Sebastian when one hasn't found room for Carpaccio. These visions come to one, and one can neither hold them nor brush them aside. Memories of Carpaccio, the magnificent, the delightful - it's not for want of such visitations, but only for want of space, that I haven't said of him what I would. There is little enough need of it for Carpaccio's sake, his fame being brighter to-day - thanks to the generous lamp Mr. Ruskin has held up to it - than it has ever been. Yet there is something ridiculous in talking of Venice without making him almost the refrain. He and the Tintoret are the two great realists, and it is hard to say which is the more human, the more various. The Tintoret had the mightier temperament, but Carpaccio, who had the advantage of more newness and more responsibility, sailed nearer to perfection. Here and there he quite touches it, as in the enchanting picture, at the Academy, of St. Ursula asleep in her little white bed, in her high clean room, where the angel visits her at dawn; or in the noble St. Jerome in his study at S. Giorgio Schiavoni. This latter work is a pearl of sentiment, and I may add without being fantastic a ruby of colour. It unites the most masterly finish with a kind of universal largeness of feeling, and he who has it well in his memory will never hear the name of Carpaccio without a throb of almost personal affection. Such indeed is the feeling that descends upon you in that wonderful little chapel of St. George of the Slaves, where this most personal and sociable of artists has expressed all the sweetness of his imagination. The place is small and incommodious, the pictures are out of sight and ill-lighted, the custodian is rapacious, the visitors are mutually intolerable, but the shabby little chapel is a palace of art. Mr. Ruskin has written a pamphlet about it which is a real aid to enjoyment, though I can't but think the generous artist, with his keen senses and his just feeling, would have suffered to hear his eulogist declare that one of his other productions - in the Museo Civico of Palazzo Correr, a delightful portrait of two Venetian ladies with pet animals - is the "finest picture in the world." It has no need of that to be thought admirable; and what more can a painter desire?
VIII