May caught herself up. In her excitement she had been presumptuous. Of course, someone like her could never wear a hat like that. Only ladies could do that. But to her relief Mrs Kelly did not seem annoyed.

‘Well, maybe one day you will. Now come along. I want a cup of tea before we start back.’

May followed obediently, puzzled by this new development. They crossed the street and turned a corner and Mrs Kelly pushed open a door, which caused a little bell to ring. In front of them was a room where there were a number of little tables covered in white cloths. A woman in a black dress with a starched cap and apron came over to them and Mrs Kelly said, ‘Tea for two, please, Mabel.’

May was aware of being scrutinised, as if there was some doubt as to whether she should be admitted. It was a doubt she shared, but Mrs Kelly headed for one of the tables and sat down, and the woman in the cap and apron stood aside so May could follow. Very soon a silver teapot arrived, with milk in a jug and a bowl of sugar lumps, and cups so delicate May was afraid to pick one up; and they were followed by an even more surprising object, a structure supporting three plates, one above the other, and on each one were things she thought must be cakes, though they were unlike any cake she had ever seen.

Mrs Kelly poured the tea. ‘Help yourself to a cake, May.’

May looked down at her hands, aware suddenly that her fingernails were far from clean. She put her hands under the table.

‘Can’t you decide?’ Mrs Kelly asked, smiling. ‘How about the chocolate one?’

She was pointing to a black square with little violet shapes on top. It looked dirty, or perhaps burnt, May thought. Perhaps she should choose that one. Her fingernails would show up less against it.

Mrs Kelly was watching her face. ‘You’ve never seen chocolate, have you?’ she said, her voice softening. ‘Here, tell you what. I’ll have half and you can have the other half.

She put the black square on her own plate, cut it in half with a tiny fork and slid half onto May’s plate. Then she cut a small portion from her own half and put it in her mouth.

‘Mmm! It’s really good. Try some.’

May took a corner and put it in her mouth. The flavour that burst on her tongue seemed to encapsulate all the wonders and beauties she had seen that afternoon. She swallowed and took another bite. It tasted even better than the first. Very soon her plate was empty.

‘Did you enjoy that?’ Mrs Kelly asked. She was laughing, but not unkindly.

‘Oh, yes, ma’am. It was lovely.’

‘Well, try one of the others. Go on. Take whichever one you fancy.’