I squeezed into a corner of shade on some steps in front of a building and found I was sharing the excitement as the crowd around me started shouting and cheering. First came the two-man gondolas, moving remarkably fast. The gondolas had been painted for the occasion in bright colours, breaking the tradition of their usual black. I noticed some spectators wore neckerchiefs in the colour of the team they were supporting. They were particularly vocal. Since I was supporting no one in particular, I just watched, although it was exciting as teams drew level, then overtook and pipped another boat on the finish line. Another heat followed, then another. And a ceremony on one of the docks on the far bank for the victors, with much jubilation if the gondolier the crowd was supporting won. Then came the junior rowing races and finally the two-man boats. They were all quite far from me, but I thought I recognized Leo, even though most of the boats were manned by dark-haired, well-muscled oarsmen. Still, I waved and cheered as I had promised. His boat came third, and he and fellow oarsman were helped on to the dais, where they were surrounded and congratulated by family and friends, with much hugging and slapping on the back. Then it was confirmed to me that it had been Leo. I saw Bianca push her way through the crowd, looking stunning in a simple white linen dress. Even from here, I recognized her instantly. She came up to Leo and gave him a very public kiss. He put an arm around her, and they were swallowed into the crowd.

The races being over, the crowd settled down to the serious business of eating. I walked up and down a bit, wondering if I should try to find my landlady and join her party. Then I decided it was unlikely I’d find them, and besides, I did not want to intrude. And frankly I had no appetite after what I had just seen. I felt alone and out of place. Everybody here was surrounded by family and friends, all laughing, teasing, eating and drinking. I realized if I’d been back in England, it wouldn’t have been much different—just my mother and me. No big family, no large circle of friends. No laughter. I sat on a step, opened my packet of food, stared at it, then decided to put it away again. I’d just go back to my room until the fireworks started. No sense at all in being here.

“Signorina! Here! Over here!” I looked up to see a large middle-aged man waving. He was seated at a table with his family. It took me a minute to realize he was waving at me. He said something.

A young man got up and came over. “My father says you should not eat alone on such a day. Please join us, there is plenty for all.”