Putu parked under a tree and Andy led the way through the gate, where there was another angled wall, ‘To confuse evil spirits,’ he said. In front of them was the family temple, a covered platform raised on pedestals, with a shrine in the centre. It was surrounded by several smaller houses and open-sided pavilions.

Two curious, smiling children ran towards them, and a young woman sat on the stone steps of one of the pavilions, brushing a little girl’s hair. They smiled at Daisy.

‘The kitchen will be on the south side; I want to see that. The design of this place might look random but everything here is placed according to custom and tradition,’ said Andy softly.

‘It’s a whole little town,’ said Grace. She was already enchanted by this private and peaceful little family world, seemingly unchanged for generations.

Two young men came out of a small house to greet them. Andy spoke to them in Balinese and introduced everyone.

‘These are Gede’s younger brothers. Their mother and father are over near the kitchen.’

A dog frolicked beside them as they followed the young men towards a pavilion where smoke was rising and the tantalising smell of food drifted in the warm breeze.

A group of women were working around an open-sided cooking area. Grace could see that the room next to it was filled with cooking utensils, food storage pots and a preparation table. Behind the kitchen she glimpsed fruit trees and gardens.

They were introduced to Gede’s mother and father, sister and his brothers’ wives, who lived in their own dwellings in the compound. Finally, a stooped, white-haired man, who was possibly younger than Andy, came forward with a gap-toothed smile to greet them.

‘This is Gede’s grandfather,’ said Andy respectfully.

They were all invited to sit down on stools outside while the old man settled in a chair and lit a cigarette. Two of the women went into the kitchen to prepare some snacks for them.

The little girl who’d been having her hair brushed came and stood next to Daisy and spoke to her. Daisy smiled shyly and looked to Andy to translate.

‘She wants to show you the animals,’ he told Daisy. ‘They have new baby piglets. Over there behind where the granary is.’

Daisy smiled and looked at Grace.

‘Sure, honey, go and explore. But be careful of the mama pig!’

Gede’s mother, Chandri, spoke some English and was very happy that her first-born son was returning home.

‘Did you teach Gede to cook?’ asked Grace.

She smiled as she nodded. ‘He help me. He likes food.’

She reverted to Balinese to explain further to Andy, who told them, ‘Because Chandri had three boys first and no daughter to help with the cooking for a long while, Gede used to prepare vegetables and always watched her cook.’

‘He likes to eat,’ Chandri said.