Belinda frowned. “I don’t think there is anything for quite a while. This is a deserted stretch of coast as far as I can remember. No, we’ll have to go back to get something for dinner. Come on, then. My lighter won’t keep going much longer.”

We closed the front door, then made our way up the steps again. We were both out of breath by the time we reached the motorcar.

“Those Cornish people must be hardy,” I gasped. “This is worse than Castle Rannoch.”

“It will all look better in the morning,” Belinda said. I could tell she was trying to sound cheerful. “And we’ll feel much better after a good hot meal and a glass of something.”

Belinda managed to turn the motor around successfully while I said a little prayer, then we negotiated the winding road until we saw the first welcoming lights of human habitation, with, thank goodness, a pub. But there was no sign of life as we pulled up outside the Smuggler’s Inn.

“Surely the pub will still be open,” I said. “It doesn’t look . . .”

But Belinda had gone ahead. She pushed open the heavy oak door. “It’s fine,” she called. “Come on.”

We stepped into a warm and smoky room. Across the ceiling were oak beams, the walls were wood paneled and a fire glowed in the fireplace. Several men sat at a table and a couple more stood beside the bar. Fishermen, I thought, judging by the big waterproof boots and a lingering odor of fish. At least two of them were smoking a pipe and it was hard to make out details through the fug. But at least it was a comforting warmth. I followed Belinda up to the bar.

“Good evening,” she said, making all the men abruptly stop their conversations and swivel to look at us, pipes poised in midair, mouths open. “I hope you are still serving food.”

The hefty middle-aged woman behind the bar had been deep in conversation with two of the men. She stared at us as if we were alien beings before she folded her arms across her ample bosom and said, “No women allowed in the public bar, I’m afraid. Ladies lounge around the corner.” She indicated with a jerk of her head.