The Caiplie Caves
Cover
Title page
Dedication page
For Michael, Linda, Beth, and Stan
PREFACE
ACKNOWLEDGED AS A site of pilgrimage from antiquity, the Caiplie Caves, on the coast of Scotland’s East Neuk of Fife, are most consistently associated with the hermit Ethernan. The village and church of Kilrenny, which means “church of Ethernan,” are not far away, overlooking the sea. But despite the distribution of Ethernan’s name on carved stones and in dedications, where he appears in the accounts he is often sketched only briefly, in passing. Upon returning from study in Ireland, he may have become the first bishop of Rathin in Buchan. Sometimes conflated with Adrian of May, murdered with his fellow monks during a Viking raid on May Island in 875, Ethernan is also supposed to have been the “Itarnan” who “died amongst the Picts” in 669, as entered in the Annals of Ulster. Though some sources imagine him travelling the Great Glen from Iona to Fife in the 640s, or the popular route from Iona east towards Lindisfarne, his link with Iona cannot be confirmed. A number suggest he was an Irish missionary to Scotland who withdrew to the Caves in the mid-7th century in order to decide whether to commit to a hermit’s solitude or establish a priory on May Island. This choice, between life as a “contemplative” or as an “active,” was not an unusual one to take up among his cohort.
Inconsistencies are not surprising. What is surprising is Ethernan’s poverty of supernatural accomplishments. Fantastic tales of early medieval saints, hermits and martyrs in Britain — their feats of strength, endurance, and clairvoyance, their animal associates, meteorological interventions, and divinely assisted acts of revenge — are enthusiastic and plentiful. Ethernan, meanwhile, is said to have survived for a very long time on bread and water.
Ethernan’s story still wanders outside the archive, resists a final resting place in the ever-expanding facility of the past. And neither are the Caves the past. As John Berger writes, “The past is not for living in,” and the Caves — known locally as the Coves — are very much lived in. Unlike Fillan’s Cave in Pittenweem, no interpretive or preservational infrastructure attends them; there is no key to be acquired at a nearby café. Nor is there even a commemorative plaque, such as the one marking Constantine’s Cave north on the Coastal Path below the Balcomie Links golf club. People still build fires in the caves at Caiplie, drink, and camp there. Alongside crosses carved over centuries, they record their own symbols and advice, political statements, declarations of uncertainty and love.
Epigraph page
It is reason and wisdom which take away cares, not places affording wide views over the sea.
— Horace, Epistles I, vi, 25–26
“In this foggy, dispute-ridden landscape”
in this foggy, dispute-ridden landscape
thus begins my apprenticeship to cowardice
no leeks sprang where I walked
no stags bore beams for my house
neither am I that type of acute person who leads others into battle
or inspires love
all creatures are in exile, says Augustine, but my defeats feel more literal
and fault-based
will my fulfilment be the fulfilment of an error?
an error at the foundation of my life, an error burning in its stove
and this fear to which, as to a bureaucracy
I am repeatedly referred
it is a weak place to meet oneself
grassed roof, dirt for a bed
I don’t need to tell you what I thought
I
THE NORTH
Where should we find consolation,
dwelling in the north? Amid the stunted
desperate plant life clinging
to its edges, thriving on atmospheric
vengeance or neglect? Of two moods,
fragile and invasive, it gazes out to sea
as its character bends inland.
And why defend our poignant attempts
at agriculture, the gall
of our entrepreneurs? The defining
mid-winter pageants performed
in a somnolent rage? The leisure class
commends the virtues of hard work
above all else, and we labour under
frost-cramped statutes, the black
letters of legislation, in hog-reek
and land-driven slag, middle-aged
from birth and, given our devotion
to slandering this place, illogically
xenophobic. We could as soon move
south as rise above it. Are sympathies
inseparable from what one does
to stay alive? What is a self
but that which fights the cold?
SAUCHOPE LINKS CARAVAN PARK
Gulls up at dawn with swords and shields,
if dawn only in low season, in the week
we can afford. My love, who negotiated with a Silk Cut
in his wheel hand the unfamiliar roundabout
to the A915 at Kirkcaldy, sweeps droppings
from the paved deck like an owner, with his whole heart.
He grew old not thinking about himself.
So it follows our vacation home is not ours, but let
by the company on certain conditions, for certain uses
pertaining to a quiet enjoyment of sea views
beyond the lower lots, signed-for with the understanding
our initiative shall likewise be applied
at the company’s discretion.
The dogs we don’t have must be leashed, our wireless
fee charged daily. Here is the rent reminding
tenants they don’t own, interest confirming
for the borrower to whom the principal belongs.
Here is the insurance to tell us we’re not
safe, and here is the loophole which allows it
to not pay. The week he’s scraped together is now his.
My old man, who raises his spirit like a lamp,
collects Stella cans tossed from the raceway
down the hill overwritten with gorse and cow parsley;
and who, discovering the bulb beside the door
burnt out, will, cursing happily, replace it with the spare
I laughed at him for stowing in the glove box.
CRAIL AUTUMN
In a stone village on a stone coast
I tried to convince the storage heaters
to take our relationship to the next level,
spend some of what they’d put away
on me, the rented flat, its walls
three feet thick, stone, and 200 years
older than Canada. What I was
doing there was not to be confused
with doing something. But neither was it
nothing, exactly, and felt necessary,
though hardly a necessity, and so settled
the soot of the subjective over
everything. Objects of my attention
made more of me. The sedimentary shore
broke, like the day, into simple shapes,
which are the most difficult
to explain. In daylight I’d walk, unless
it rained, then hit the Co-op at 4,
before the working people. Suppers were
less simple than negligent, and under
the duvet I’d ruined with ink, the evening’s
plan turned to Ativan. Panel shows.
A PLENITUDE
Appearing as though they originate in spiritual rather
than material seed, as proof
we don’t know how to properly celebrate
or mourn — bindweed and ox-eye daisy, cranesbill, harebell,
hare’s-foot clover, whose ideology is fragrant
and sticky, the underside of reflection blooming
across centuries. Arguments for and against belief
volunteering in equal profusion.
My many regrets have become the great passion of my life.
One may also grow fond of what there isn’t
much of. Grass of Parnassus —
and when you finally find it, it’s just okay.
But look for lies and you will see them everywhere
like the melancholy thistle, erect spineless herb
of the sunflower family. That the eradication of desire
promotes peace and lengthens life
is time-honoured counsel. Still, you can’t simply wait until
you feel like it. The beauty of the campions,
bladder and sea, the tough little sea rocket,
is their effort in spite of, I want to say, everything
though they know nothing of what we mean
when we say everything; it is a sentiment referring only
to itself. Purple toadflax, common mouse ear,
orchids, trefoils, buttercup, self-heal,
the Adoxa moschatellina it’s too late in the year for,
I can hardly stand to look at them.
And all identified after the fact
but for the banks of wild roses, the poppies you loved
parked like an ambulance by the barley field.
NO 59981 05825; 56.24324° N, 2.64731° W
Landward, the cave mouth conspicuously dark.
Halfway between Anstruther and Crail,
singular in the vicinity. Prominent
calcareous sandstone outcrop on a raised beach
level, short lengths of passage
and as spectacularly weathered as the coexistence
of good and evil, the earth pigments.
Anchor in five metres, taking care to avoid
the numerous creel markers. At half-tide
a dinghy may be hauled out where the reef buffers
flat rocks, though they are sharp
and landing delicate, if land you must.
Wind may complicate return to the boat. Any visit
is a lesson in how quickly conditions change.
Having abandoned his mission . . .
Having abandoned his mission,
Ethernan finds the Fife coast
crowded with solitaries
terrible to see, worse to be anywhere near, these vagrants
in search of a hermitage
men and women, mostly men
in rags overworn with larger rags
no one on whom to practice themselves
poisoned by their personalities, speaking pain
without opening the mouth
like vegetable life, but less reliable, huddled in the light
of the blind upstairs, and those are not the lingering odours of Paradise
yet they do seem free from a townie fear
of unfit, unkind, unmarked places, the undistracted measure
my fellow peregrini in self-exile, the form
of ascetic renunciation most available to Irishmen
Efforts are made to dissuade him . . .
Efforts are made to dissuade him
from his retreat
dress codes, character disorders
abecedarian hymns of praise
laws
he who does not cut his hair in the Roman manner, must
she who leaves hers uncovered, must not
no consort with pagans, no believing in vampires
no changing your mind, no wandering
can a person be trusted whose principles forbid despair?
I spot the cleric from a distance by his wide sleeves
his minor build’s angle of progress
he looks like someone who sleeps for pleasure
that iron bell a tiresome associate, a bit much
and I will soon be in earshot of his sentences
which exude an ugliness arising in nature
as a mix of banality and abundance
Evidence of his own cult in Pictland . . .
Evidence of his own cult in Pictland exists
in the distribution of carved stones
bearing his name
I can’t be sure now there ever was humility in it
burning the self as though it were a city
believing the past might be destroyed
and remade
we Companions of God appeared, even to ourselves
to experience our visions as actual contests
confronting dragons as did the Child Jesus
conversing with the irritable waters of the Albus Fons
improving on Servanus’ arguments with the devil while striding broad tracts of land
in satisfaction and in duty to the people
to whom we offered evidence of those who lived and died
contrary to nature’s precedents
those blessed by the artifacts claimed special talents
certainly, they seemed to get a lot more done
but the veneration of relics became a trade in relics eventually suggesting
our dear saints possessed, in addition to divine attributes
more than the usual number of working parts
to whom belonged all the blood-soaked cloth?
the surfeit of St. Pancras?
corpses piled up until the whole world was a tomb
death lost its autonomy, strange to say, it sickened
the boundary between place and no-place
no longer firm
it reduced our ability to think metaphorically
we believed the things we said because we said them
and as my colleagues grew incapable
of speaking off-brand, in the middle voice
the temper of my own voice drained away
“Ethernan” likely derived from the Latin . . .
“Ethernan” likely derived
from the Latin “aeternus,”
or “eternal”
until, finally, all was noise
rage and shame of creatures domesticated by brutality
uncanny beings mechanized under the influence
of austerity’s single truth
and the amphetamine of perpetual conflict
in a region of caves with a hermit in each like worms in cabbages
a vacancy
deep, vibrant compartments, chimney announced by a draft
that spat on the back of my neck
silence its content, its disposition, and generative
as language is generative
no one word reigns
I was shy, as we are before the original and self-evident
it immediately duplicated itself inside me, more than can be used in a lifetime
my first fire ingling in the recesses, I saw the scars
from its many tenants
THE DESERT FATHERS
With or without a bindle of crystal meth
they made their anchorage in Egypt’s
Wadi El Natrun, or the dismantled
Marine Corps training base of Slab City, California,
hard skills in transition, taking losses
and burning, if not with a sensible fire,
in the pride of specialized knowledge.
Snakeman relocates the red diamond rattlesnake
and northern Mojave rattlesnake
from residents’ trailers to his own to live
alongside him with the scorpions and guard dogs;
it’s tough to have riches and not love them.
St. Anthony sold his land, gave the money to
the poor, yet in his Outer Mountain sanctuary cried
I desire peace, but these bad thoughts
will not leave me. All burned in body,
in contemplation, as the lonely burn,
a musical state. The brethren assemble
for a meal, or, from the last free place in America
watch the Navy at war games bombing
the Chocolate Mountains,
but Snakeman prefers to exercise his hobbies —
salvaging undetonated shells, pointing
guns at people, antagonizing snowbirds
and short-term RVers communally parked
near the East Jesus Sculpture Garden
and preaching the ethics of solitude.
By vocation or necessity the future transforms
in the heat of the impartial desert.
Tourists and scholars of human interest
from villages along the Nile, or funnelled
through Niland, which the census
grudgingly designates “a place,” seek insight
but wish someone would do something about the trash.
Leonard Knight’s Salvation Mountain beckons
in three-storey robes of multicoloured latex.
He clocked in with a half-bag of cement and some paint
and kept at it for 26 years. But just as Anthony
decamped to his Inner Mountain
so Leonard did to the Eldorado care home,
and even the tattooed hermit of the Isle of Skye
took up a flat in Broadford. A cell
can teach you everything. All it asks is
you give it your mind. Snakeman wars against
the body that would destroy his spirit.
Someday, he says, I will be all flame.
“WHEN SOLITUDE WAS A PROBLEM, I HAD NO SOLITUDE”
Experience teaches, but its lessons
may be useless. I could have done without a few
whose only byproduct is grief;
which, as waste, in its final form,
isn’t good for anything.
A helicopter beating all night above the firth,
a druid shouting astrology outside
the off-licence, will eventually
put the Ambien in ambience.
Our culture is best described as heroic.
Courageous in self-promotion, noble
in the circulation of others’ disgrace,
its preoccupation with death in a context of immortal glory
truly epic, and the task becomes to keep
the particulars in motion
lest they settle into categories whose opera
is bad infinity.
Isolation. The odd auditory hallucination.
The meagre profile of a widow’s cabbagerow
corresponds to needs must,
but also to its architect’s state of mind
at the time. Why do I not move on? Why
hang around here while grass
grows up my chimney?
Every choice is a refusal. For Christ’s sake.
I am guarding the walls. Like punctuation
it could make all the difference.
TENTSMUIR FOREST
The sign denoting a negative quantity indicates,
also, subtraction. The symbol for equivalence
means also alike. The deadliest mushroom is
among the most delicious. Distinct
in their intensities of purpose. Her children found her
on the kitchen floor, plate on the table,
pan on the stove. A life foraging in these woods,
she should have known. But to pour out
is not to spill. To spill is not to lay oneself down.
A MISCALCULATION
Like a king from a promontory
the kestrel presides from an updraft, an array
of barely perceptible movements sustaining
balance and attention, and the woodmouse,
the shrew, the secondary characters,
know whose watch they’re under. There are no
bystanders among them. The razorbill’s piety
winters at sea, secular and medium-sized,
black above, white below; while
frontloaded with military tech
gannets send tones of the aquatic scale
straight to the emotional signature clusters,
though we human proprietors of emotion
are to them as circumstantial
as the shadow I cast over a vole’s workday,
my presence too general for relevance.
It was November. I made these notes,
then in absentminded self-disgust
set out on the path from Crail
and by sunset, at 4, could neither return
nor make Kingsbarns before dark.
Though no one knew where I was, real danger
lay elsewhere. No cows even. Just sleepless
fields staring skyward and the firth prowling
the forest of itself, what’s hidden as well as
what hides it. To turn back would have made sense
but I chose otherwise, a lamp post
at what I assumed was the golf course
a fixed point I couldn’t seem to advance on
like a misinterpretation pursued because now
it is your life. Proportion vanished. A creature
scratching at a stone dyke was big as the North
Atlantic, and my body, not as old as when visible
became, not one with mind, but indistinguishable —
consciousness feeling with the blunt toe of its boot
as its footprints fill with groundwater.
THE SPIES
Where two convene, a third is always present.
This makes the world seem small
and satisfies our need
to be observed and understood.
Polishing a cup behind the bar. In the background
weighing grain. Hovering over us
a few paces behind, or racing ahead, innocently
buzzing like a toy, like the boy
who bags your pheasants then
reports you to the king.
The scenery interprets us
and we are also the hyper-vigilant scenery
sanguine in our right to own the frontiers
in our photographs, drop
some payload, linger at neighbours’ windows
with trauma sensors all lit up,
to rat each other out
with the assistance of an airborne scrap
of the 21st-century unconscious
beside which the old machines of delivery appear
inefficient, comical, overlarge, like a Quaalude,
quaint as any former bond between
the watcher and the watched.
Laws of causality and continuity reside in
the vertical din. For over such forms as my heart
is wont to range, did my eyes then range . . .
MERCENARIES KNOW THERE’S ALWAYS ROOM FOR SPECIALISTS IN THE MARKET
“Security contractor” is the term preferred
by a growing industry of private actors who,
at the sharp end of operations,
aren’t kidding ourselves about the economy.
Money is a country I can take with me.
I walk through the battlefield
as through my home town, self-actuated,
valued for my talents. In this territory
also known as Fuck You. Your home town
is now my home town.
These abstract northern wastes
are even more so when you’re in them
fighting alongside those you’ve fought against.
The Picts, fortunately, are unmistakable
in their fondness for nudity and tattoos,
in their grim, barbaric language
whose struggle to remain alive is bold
and clearly futile. Homer, in Smyrna, blackwater
of the Meles flowing through him,
knew some individuals are born in combat
and others ruined, frantic with belief in meaning
as a thing outside them
they can’t find. All saved, nonetheless,
from poverty, dishonour, boredom, irrelevance.
A durable disorder is in our best interest
to sustain, and loyalty to a paycheque purer
than to a man, or god, and more flexible.
Non-linear. Mission-based.
If the plan does not fit the game you see,
call a few audibles, and change it.
THE MERIDIAN
Fishers, who mapped Kilrenny steeple
as a marker to direct them at sea, call it St. Irnie
to this day. I can’t bring you back.
My imagination’s not enough. Or maybe
it was lost with you offshore among the rigs,
between domestic and foreign sectors, its beacon
unattended. A loved thing shared and doubled
is in solitude never whole again.
The harbour’s full of sightsee daycruisers,
private recreational vessels, a few trawlers left
to cross swords for Talisman Energy’s odd jobs
on their bellies in the mud. When the sea,
even knowing what it knows, dares flood back in here
with whom will I watch flat fish rummaging
in the sediment, the Canadian sport fisherman
in new gear, baiting his hook with a fillet?
WHOSE DEATHS WERE RECORDED OFFICIALLY AS CASUALTIES OF “THE BATTLE OF MAY ISLAND”
1918, last of January, not late, but dark for hours
Sliding under the Forth Bridge toward the North Sea
Cruisers, battleships, destroyers, and the K-boats
Big, steam-driven pigs
Wallowing in the troughs and undulations
Under radio silence, and no lights
Pursuant to worthless intel
To opinions more plausible in formation than they might otherwise appear
En masse, you can’t see past them
Is he still a boy
Sailing under the flag of error
And, as it happens, low cloud cover
On a collision course with the unforeseen minesweepers
On board K-11, or K-17, turning hard to port
If not exactly on a dime
Or K-14, whose rudder jams full right, K-22 who slams into it
Then is run over by the oncoming HMS Inflexible
Who hears his name called, as if in twilight sleep
A second flotilla, led by HMS Fearless
Unaware the ships of the first have turned around
Increases speed to 21 knots
They meet head-on east of May Island, which barely looks up from its desk
Intuition breaks in two and heads for the bottom
Along with the wreck of the K-17
Whose crew is in the water
Feeling the warmth of the self against cold abstraction
No group of people has more in common
More fear in their blood than oxygen at this point
Unstable land, unswimmable water, air needing light
As it was in the chaos at the beginning of creation
Behind Fearless, and to avoid HMS Australia
K-6 rams K-4, which sinks with all hands
Remaining capital ships and destroyers of the 5th Battle Squadron
Bear down on the scene
On the men in the water
Whose eyesight has never been clearer, how cruel
I saw not it, but the place where it dwells
Chains of the wake around their ankles
Propellers tearing through them
Seven stars of the plough obscured by weather
Badly discordant atoms in the one place night seems to be pouring out of
Whose grandfather was a shepherd
How can he sleep in such cold
Face up or face down
In sheets of fuel
The unbreathable aftermath
104 killed, a conservative estimate
No enemy engaged but error
In the historical present, a modest commemorative monument
With its back to the sea
SONG
Ships arrived to harvest souls // I saw stones become a church //
I saw the church filled with gold // and the pit with souls who harvest gold //
I saw more fields cut from the forest // I no longer saw the forest dwellers //
As an egg to a bird, tree to a stone // I saw trees turn into ships, and sail away //
II
NO 59981 05825; 56.24324° N, 2.64731° W
Make your preparations. Supplement a lack
of expertise with curiosity undeterred
by the vandalized interior, histoplasmotic
pigeon shit, trash of its pilgrims who’ve written
on its forehead and eyelids their symbols
of blessing and protection: Pictish z-rod
(indeterminate), crosses Latin and Greek,
Mairi + Ian, Saor Alba. Iron and magnesium,
the contemplative oxides. Axis of
the main cave, NW-SE. You will see,
among spirits of the exhumed, the holdfasts,
will know the place by its local name
and your readiness repaid. Another landmark
fixed in the mind of the navigator.
He remembers a friend . . .
He remembers a friend
from his travels
dispersed atoms sullenly reconciled, I woke
to a human noise conceived outside me, for once
and a bundle over to which I hauled my body’s carbons
a griskin
hard bread
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