‘Yes, I looked at the website. A lot of Cajun and Creole food, but supposedly with a French twist. Which I guess means the portions will be small, even if the bill isn’t.’ He laughed.

‘What exactly are you hoping to find out?’

He told her about Leroy Ceejay. ‘He is one of the partners in the business, and it could be a money-laundering outfit.’

‘How will you be able to tell just by eating the food?’

He laughed. ‘That’s a good question. Clearly, if the place is full of disreputable-looking types that will be a clue. It would be a good opportunity to speak to the owner if he is there, too.’

‘Well, I’m getting dressed up for this. I hope you will too.’

‘Suit and tie is all I’ve got to offer. I’ve got permission from Alison Rigby to expense my meal, and I’ll pay for yours. No wine for me.’

J’adore Ça had famously taken over a car showroom on one of the smartest streets in Kingston-upon-Thames. Its Grade II listed Art Deco features, including curved metallic windows, gave the dining area a spaciousness and a light that made diners feel like they were on a film set. Anton St Jeanne had hung the place with iridescent kingfisher-blue silk curtains, which absorbed the echo of the wood-panelled floor and the usual crockery and kitchen sounds. The Gillards were shown to a secluded table a little way back from the windows, and Craig sat so that he could see the entire sweep of the dining room.

A stunningly attractive black waitress with a shaven head brought their menus. Sam ordered a Kir Royale as an aperitif, while her husband settled for a mocktail of fruit juices. It didn’t arrive as Sam expected, as some great confection with a paper parasol stuck in it, but in a tall slender glass, more like a vase, with rainbow colours visible through the side. Earlier research online had prepared them for the prices, and Sam craned her neck to see what was being served on other tables. She had spotted a fillet of blackened catfish, and a seafood concoction crowned by a crayfish. When they ordered she chose a remoulade of shrimp with horseradish celery and a mild mustard sauce. Craig chose the Creole oxtail with okra and was complimented by the waitress on his choice. ‘That’s my favourite. It’s a long, slow cook, which brings the richest flavours from the bone to the gravy.’ Sam chose a glass of Chardonnay to accompany her dish.