“It takes a few days, ma’am, as it must boil a long time and then I must strain it, let it sit, and then add the salt gradually.” Rose was making this up as she went along. No chance of a CVS near here where she could dash out and get some Clean and Pure, stuff it into what might pass for a sixteenth-century bottle or jar, and give it to Her Royal Highness.

After breakfast had been brought into the princess’s chambers, it was time for her to dress. Another maid, Sara, came in to help with the clothing. She ranked higher than Rose. Rose’s job was merely to fetch the garments after the princess had decided on a dress. But going into the princess’s closet—actually an entire room—was a fabulous adventure for Rose. Talk about the layered look! Rose had made a list in her head of the layers. It went roughly in this order:

A slip, sometimes called a chemise

Silk knee stockings

A petticoat

A kirtle, a one-piece garment worn over the slip

A gown

False undersleeves (foresleeves) attached with buttons or ties

A stomacher, a kind of pre-spandex tummy-flattening contraption (Rose began to wonder when spandex had been invented)

A headdress or coif called a French hood (in Rose’s mind it looked like something a nun might wear)

Then there were the optional items: a farthingale, which was a hoop skirt in linen or in silks, with rope, reeds, or a cane hoop, and a partlet—a kind of fancy scarf tucked in and made of silk or fur for winter.

Rose not only was making a mental list of these garments but was determined to try to remember their design and construction. If she only had a pencil to sketch some of the details. But pencils most likely had not been invented yet. She loved the idea of false sleeves and studied carefully how they were attached to the main part of the dress.

Sara’s task was to actually dress Elizabeth. It took at least a half an hour. First there was the chemise. Next came the silk knee stockings. Then came the stomacher that flattened everything out that was beneath the dress. But the princess was very skinny and did not need much flattening out. Yet it did give a smooth look to whatever dress she wore. However, on some days when less formal attire was appropriate, she merely wore a kirtle. Today she would wear the stomacher. Princess Mary was again in residence and there was an undeniable rivalry between the two, from morning through evening, of which clothing was only one part.

“So, Sara, what is Princess Mary wearing to chapel this morning?” Elizabeth asked.

It was Sara’s job to sneak into Princess Mary’s chambers and see what had been set out.

“The magenta brocade with the jewel-encrusted sleeves.”