But I also liked the way that Jesse Marlon threw his weight behind the plan, said how brave his father was and how right (even though, from what I gather from Rose, Jesse Marlon apparently prefers to live in a willow bender in the eco-village rather than stay with his father and stepmother at Godminster Hall). ‘Climate change is upon us, and we are responsible for it,’ he said, looking very noble, while all except Ned and Lulu stared down at their plates.

It may be the start of the dawning of a new Enlightenment, when the upper middle classes finally realize they were in the midst of a moment, a climacteric, in which they have to lead from the front, but that’s not to say it doesn’t make for a sticky evening.

‘The wind turbine on Hamble Hill will reduce the consumption of fossil-fuel-generated electricity at Godminster Hall by 70 per cent but, even more importantly, it will serve as a visual reminder, as a positive environmental statement, that we each can do something,’ said Jesse Marlon. ‘Wind power is pure and free and causes no carbon-dioxide emissions, or nuclear waste –’

At this point Granville interrupted and said, ‘But I thought they didn’t work – isn’t that one of the few things the Danes and the Krauts have ever managed to agree on?’ – but Jesse Marlon had the bit between his teeth.

‘I know that Dad feels, as a local landowner and local employer, he feels particularly responsible. Turbines are, you know, a symbol of our age, and we are going to see a lot more of them.’ He concluded, ‘I just want you all to know I’m 400 per cent behind Dad’s plan.’

‘Thank you, Jesse,’ said Ned. ‘And I am pleased to add that the environmental-impact assessment we have commissioned from consultants is looking highly positive,’ Ned said, as if we would be pleased too. ‘It’s going to planning by the end of March. I know it’s going to be an uphill struggle, but we are as a family –’ at this point he looked at Jesse Marlon rather than his wife Lulu – ‘absolutely passionate about generating the energy of tomorrow.’

Ned raised his glass, as if to himself.

We all sit and digest this, with the risotto and beef. I feel another wave of sleep wash over me, suddenly realize I need to go to bed now and stifle a yawn.