‘Sorry, darling?’ says Granville. ‘You’ve been what?’

‘Busting my booty,’ says Cath. ‘It’s American for working hard.’

‘Ze sausage at ze farm shop eez so good,’ Virginie continues, ‘I am sending ’eem to Maman in Soissons, and I say, zees sausage, you do not ’ave to see heem made, because in Honeyborne, Catherine Cobb is God, and so, I ’ave met my maker alreaday.’

Everyone laughs at this tribute to our hostess, who takes up the thread.

‘We are introducing some new lines,’ Cath says. ‘For the relaunch in the Tithe Barn. I’m very, very excited by them. I’m doing a Court Place paint, the special grey-green colour on all our woodwork, because – you’ll never believe this – but when guys come to the shop, they flake bits off to match it at Home-base. So we’re launching Court Place Grey-Green. And then, yes, Virginie, there’s our new fennel and venison, thank you. It’s a team effort, as these things always are and, well, I work hard to make sure I have a great team.’ I am wondering why she is talking to us as if we are investors or shareholders, but not for long, because she raises her glass. ‘When I’m finished,’ she announces, ‘Carole Bamford and Debo Devonshire will be looking to their laurels.’

‘Wow, Cath,’ I say. ‘Really? Because Daylesford Organics… well, it does seem to set a new standard. I haven’t been to Chatsworth – always longed to – but I’ve been to the one in Gloucestershire and the one in Pimlico, the flagship one, and I have to say, I did think, how can you exceed this? Everything is so smart, and perfect in every way. Even the milk in degradable packaging made of, what is it, chalk? They wrap the aged Cheddar in organic linen that has been dipped in organic lard. The sleek stores, the hand-roasted coffee, the hand-kneaded breads, Viscount Linley always popping in for a latte, all those Tamara Mellon types in there, and those cheeses…’ We all pause reverentially as we each recall magical moments, thanks to Lady Bamford’s many emporia of exquisiteness. ‘It’s just… well, hard to compete with that, isn’t it?’

‘I agree, you can’t,’ says Cath instantly, ‘and I wouldn’t want to. It’s all credit to Carole that she’s made such a success of the enterprise. And I just lo-o-ve the product,’ she gushes, with the fervent sincerity of the cup-always-full American. She loves the success of others, she is never happier than when giving credit where credit is due, and always looks on the bright side. ‘But here’s the USP, the wild new idea. I’m ditching plans to get the fully organic certification –‘