So we viewed Achnacarry and the Dark Mile and the region of Prince Charlie’s cave from the safety of the water. This is where yachting has a splendid ease over hiking or the pause that follows the mere rush of motoring. All the marvels of heaven and earth may be contemplated objectively or in deep abstraction without a single bite. ‘They’re following you,’ cries the Crew. So we take a turn across to the edge of the squall and come back unattended.

The following morning the rain had stopped but the wind was still strong, so as the glass was rising we were in no hurry to depart and decided that we would wait until the afternoon and then proceed in an enchanted calm. The glass kept rising slowly but surely, but about five o’clock the weather was very bad and the rain coming down again. So we lifted anchor.

Had the same strength of wind been against us, we certainly could never have faced it. We were astonished at the seas that were running and had to keep a sharp eye on the dinghy. Before getting the full force of the wind, the Mate had hoisted his precious sail. Fortunately, jibbing in the first blast, it flattened most of its wet area against the mast. We were going at a great pace, and in fact we covered the ten miles in about one hour, by far the highest speed of the trip.

It was quite an impressive sight looking back on the wind-blackened water alive with seething crests, and we chuckled at this inland effort to emulate the real sea. The only spot where we were anxious for a few minutes was just after passing the Achnacarry glen, where some deflection of the wind adds to the fury. Later we heard that two sizable yachts had that day decided not to face it in Loch Ness.

Driving along at this speed, we began to wonder with some concern about our approach to the end of the loch with its swing bridge and two locks, but fortunately the loch narrows just before the end and then opens out again into a small but sheltered bay, and with relief and offering much encouragement we watched the Crew get the horn ready. It was the first time it had ever been required. Tilting it up in the best style, she blew a prolonged and splendid blast. We gave her a great cheer. Even the lock-keepers heard it.

I was not now going to make the Corpach mistake of stopping too soon, but the wind being with us and the flow from the locks negligible, we went so far that, before the gates could be opened, we had to tie up against the stone wall, whose base, for no doubt some interesting reason, curved outward immediately below the water. After that, when approaching locks or bridges, we stood well off, until we could enter or pass properly; and that undoubtedly is the right way.