Ros and I decided not to let not being Lutherans stop us from putting our nose into the Tanunda Oval that afternoon, where a BACK TO TANUNDA DAY, in celebration of South Australia’s 150th birthday, was in progress. This party seemed to have two distinct and sometimes contradictory elements. Around the peripheries of the playing field people in early German settlers’ dress were gathered, some of them looking defiantly natural, as is the way when you are costumed peculiarly, but others looking genuinely natural, as though this was how, spiritually anyway, they essentially saw themselves. In the oval proper, though, a general free-for-all seemed to be taking place, a sort of It’s a Knockout without any referee. I learnt from someone who might or might not have been an early Lutheran pig farmer that this was called the Participatory Games – you were awarded a signed certificate just for being in them. Had I not suddenly noticed a wine-tasting tent it’s just possible that I would have thrown off my jacket and participated, but the opportunity of making a few judicious assessments on a sticky afternoon was not really to be foregone. The more especially as there were only minutes left before the Tanunda Liedertafl Choir and the Tanunda Brass Band began their concert in the agricultural hall. A little something red and pungent from Yalumba, a little something even redder and more pungent from Peter Lehmann, and it was time to take our seats.