They went one afternoon together to the pyramids. ‘Let’s climb up,’ Reem said when they arrived and she managed a few of the blocks of the largest pyramid before sitting down. Khalid climbed and sat next to her, while Nadia remained on the bottom block, making patterns in the desert sand with her feet. It was the best time of day to visit the pyramids, the sun no longer blinding but a giant orange button slipping on the horizon. A few camels carrying tourists bobbed across the desert, small boys pulled donkeys and offered rides. A family was picnicking, with a large watermelon, and kofta sandwiches wrapped in newspaper. A little girl with torn shoes and scruffy hair sold them roasted watermelon seeds and peanuts.

‘Khalid, get us some peanuts, please,’ said Reem. But he did not have to move for the girl, sensing the opportunity to sell, clambered up the stones to where they were sitting.

‘Here Nadia, for you,’ and Reem tossed her a wrap of peanuts before Nadia had time to say that she didn’t want any.

Nadia saw an elderly couple, obviously tourists, walk towards the Sphinx. The woman reminded Nadia of her primary school dinner lady. The couple’s advance was interrupted by a young boy selling small leather camels. His faded t-shirt hovered above his navel and his left foot dragged a torn pair of sandals. He twisted himself around them, trying to get them to notice his wares though the couple showed no interest. But he persisted as if he had been taught that this was what he must do to sell.

‘Look dear,’ Nadia heard the woman say to her husband, ‘He’s selling them for a pound each and in the hotel they’re five pounds!’

The accent made Nadia homesick for London. She moved towards the couple, drawn to their familiar tones, eager for a flicker of recognition, an encouragement to say hello. But when they looked up at her they saw someone different from them, an Egyptian girl at the foot of that large pyramid in Giza. Nadia forced herself to speak out because she needed this encounter now, needed to make this link. She said, ‘If you haggle with him, you can even get two camels for a pound. He’ll sell them to you for that price, if you stand your ground.’ She illustrated by using her rudimentary Arabic on the boy. He immediately dropped his price to a local rate. The couple were delighted. ‘And you speak such good English too!’

Nadia explained that she was from North London and chatted for a few minutes with Dan and Sheila from Tunbridge Wells. They were seasoned travellers having been to Greece, Israel and Jordan, but Cairo had more to offer, they said.