‘Probably. Though he loathed the man. An arrogant authoritarian, he used to always say, but he did allow de Gaulle to be a true Republican.’

‘But he’s been dead for forty years!’

‘Not to Grand-père he hasn’t,’ grinned Philippe affectionately. ‘As you see, he’s expecting him on any minute. Anyway –’ he raised his voice so that his increasingly deaf father could hear – ‘you prefer Astérix, don’t you Papa?’

Antoine nodded enthusiastically as Philippe inserted the much-used DVD featuring Astérix, the wily Gaul, and his big and slower-witted friend Obélix, as they outwitted the invading Romans once again.

Soon Antoine was happily roaring with laughter, actual tears falling down his lean and wrinkled face.

‘It’s new to him every time,’ Philippe remarked. ‘I’m almost envious.’

‘Don’t you ever get impatient with him?’ If he were honest, Jean-Christophe sometimes resented the times he had to stay in and look after his grandfather. He even wondered if Antoine should go into a home, but Philippe wouldn’t hear of it.

‘He taught me everything I know in the kitchen. Making sure he stays in his own home is the least I can do for him,’ his father insisted. ‘He worked harder than any man I’ve known.’ He grinned at his son. ‘Even us.’

Jean-Christophe smiled back. ‘You’re a good man, Papa.’

Philippe shrugged, looking almost embarrassed at the compliment. ‘I’m not sure your mother would agree.’ He ruffled his son’s long hair affectionately. ‘Do you miss her still?’

It was his son’s turn to shrug. ‘Sometimes. But it’s a long time ago.’

‘I’m sorry, Jean-Christophe. I put success before everything. Maybe those bloody Michelin stars went to my head.’

‘You threw them away easily enough,’ his son reminded gently. ‘To start again and look after Grand-père. Do you ever regret it?’

‘Never,’ his father replied without hesitation, then cut the seriousness with a grin. ‘Well, not often. What I have here is far more important than what a handful of critics think. My family around me in one of the most beautiful places in France. Who could ask for more?’ He looked at his watch. ‘Saying that, I won’t have a restaurant at all unless I get going. Can you sit with him till Amélie comes? She won’t be long.’ Amélie was the comfortable middle-aged woman who shared Antoine’s care.

‘Of course.’

‘And congratulations on your job.’

‘You’re sure you don’t need me? I know what hard work it is.’

‘What, and have you under my feet with that awful music of yours?’ Jean-Christophe’s taste in rap music was a running joke between them. ‘Can’t wait to get rid of you! Besides, you’ll be able to tell us what the rosbifs are really like.’

‘Just like us, only speaking a different language, I imagine.’